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THIS ARTICLE IS STILL EVOLVING!
The page may contain rough drafts that include raw source materials.

^ Jabsco “Two-Shaft” Raw Water Pump Coupling Failure.
^ ^ Poor Workmanship.
^ ^ Engine Timing Gear Damage.
^ ^ Overheat damage that typically results from a coupling failure and the repairs required.
^ ^ Engines Affected.
^ ^ Fix with new “Single-Shaft” Raw Water Pump.
^ ^ Upgrade to 1″ Water Pump.
^ ^ Removing the Pump Drive Adapter.
^ ^ In Review.

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The Jabsco 5810-0001 engine cooling raw water pump, (Blue Arrow) sometimes called the seawater pump, was driven by various geared adapters (Green Arrow) depending on the engine to which it was fitted.

When fitted to the Ford Industrial Power Products Diesel Engines from the UK such as the Lehman marinised Dorset series engine above and below, the pump is driven at crankshaft speed by the camshaft driven gear on the front of the engine (the gear shown below being replaced). We will discuss engine timing gear damage later in this article. If you look closely, you can see that the raw water pump in this picture is not the “Two-Shaft” type pump pictured above. We will discuss this “Single-Shaft” pump later in this article.

Jabsco “Two-Shaft” Raw Water Pump Coupling

The two shafts that drive the Jabsco pump below are joined by a slotted coupling. The slotted end of the pump shaft coupling can be seen on the right end of the pump below (see  the Blue Arrow in the next picture and #18 in the following diagram).

Ensure that the adapter ring (see Green Arrow in picture above and #12 in diagram above) is in place when assembling the pump to the drive adapter so that the shafts stay aligned. Otherwise, the couplings’ slots and tangs will be damaged very quickly. The “tangs” of an opposing drive adapter shaft coupling can be seen below inside the pump adapter housing.

The “tangs” of the removed adapter shaft below are worn so badly that the they could no longer drive the slots in the raw water pump shaft. The pump stopped pumping and the engine began to overheat. The engine was equipped with a wet exhaust overheat alarm (discussed later) so the owner was able to shut the engine off before it suffered serious damage.

Fortunately, the desperate single engine boat owner was able to bend what was left of the worn tangs outward just enough to engage the pump shaft coupling long enough to reach safe harbor. The pump was replaced with the new style one-shaft pump discussed later. The pump coupling below shows the damage suffered by the coupling’s slots.

Unfortunately, this design has proven to be very prone to bearing failure and rapid wear of the couplings’ slots and tangs. As the bearings and couplings develop more “play”, they interact and the rate at which they degrade quickens. When the coupling stops driving the water pump, the engine will suffer serious overheat damage if not shut down immediately. 

The factors that affect wear of the couplings’ slots and tangs.

1 – The impeller inside this type of pump creates torsional pulses as the blades climb over the cam inside the pump (see Yellow Arrow below).

These pulses telegraph through the shafts causing the coupling to chatter, especially if the coupling was assembled lacking lubricant such as a heavy grease. This chatter causes the coupling to wear and the more the coupling wears, the more powerful the chatter, so the faster the coupling wears. This coupling chatter can often be heard using a mechanics stethoscope.

2 – The pump shaft bearings and the gear adapter shaft bearings tend to be short-lived due in part to the above described coupling chatter. As the bearings develop more “play”, the shaft(s) become more unstable allowing the couplings’ slots and tangs to rub against each other more causing them to wear more rapidly. This results in more chatter creating this “vicious circle” of ever increasing wear.

3 – If the pump shaft bearings were damaged during initial installation or during replacement because the proper procedure or fixture were not used, the bearings will develop more “play” as above resulting in more chatter, etc. The coupling slots below (see Blue Arrows) have become badly worn primarily due to the bearings being damaged during installation. The slots on this drive coupling have worn nearly half off.

All these parts are listed on parts breakdown sheets shown later in this article.

Poor Workmanship

Note the cross-threaded pump mounting bolt below at the 10 o’clock position (see Blue Arrow). When bolting the Jabsco “Two-Shaft” raw water pump to the drive adapter, remember that it is very easy to cross-thread the mounting bolts into the soft aluminum drive adapter housing. When any of the mounting bolts cannot be properly torqued because they are cross-threaded, they can allow the pump-to-adapter junction to flex which can cause additional wear of the shaft coupling and even mounting flange failure.

Also note that because of the volume and velocity of the raw water flow in the engine’s cooling system, it is very poor practice to use a sharp, tight elbow that will impede the water flow like the elbow on the raw water pumps outlet above (see Green Arrow). Sweeping elbows like the ones used on the pump’s inlet above should be used  (see Yellow Arrow). Sharp, tight elbows may also suffer cavitation and erosion damage due to the water’s velocity and then fail flooding the bilges.

This particular water pump was plumbed from the sea strainer with lengthy solid piping which is very poor practice as the piping is exposed to engine vibration and will succumb to reverse bending fatigue, and break, flooding the bilges and most likely sink the vessel.

PIX of sea strainer piping*

Engine Timing Gear Damage

On engines where the pump is driven by the engine’s timing gears like the Lehman marinized Ford UK lorry and tractor engines, a worn coupling and/or failing adapter shaft bearings can also contribute to excessive pump driven gear wear and ultimately to engine timing gear wear that can result in failure of the timing gears that will cause catastrophic damage to the engine.

Whenever the pump is removed from the adapter or the drive adapter is removed from the engine, the pump shaft bearings and the adapter shaft bearings should be checked for wear and roughness as this can also contribute to excessive wear of the pump’s driven gear and the engine’s timing gears. Way above, the second picture in this article shows the camshaft driven gear being replaced due to excessive wear. Fortunately this condition was discovered before the the gears failed causing catastrophic damage to the engine. NOTE: Inspection of the coupling, the shafts, the bearings, the pump driven gear and all the engine timing gears, etc. should be done periodically because when the engine’s timing gears fail, the valves and pistons will collide inside the engine making a sound not unlike the sound of a hungry cash register. Below is an enlargement of the gear above which shows “near-failure” tooth wear.

Note how the gear tooth faces above are more badly worn toward the right end of the tooth, and the top land of each tooth is narrower on the right end of the tooth compared to the left end of the tooth. This is just an example of how a worn gear can look. The gear can look quite differently and still be near failing.

Worn gears can also chatter and create torsional pulses can telegraph back into the pump shaft coupling causing it to wear even faster. Gear chatter may become noisy enough to hear with a mechanics stethoscope, however it may be difficult to discern because the timing gears normally produce quite a lot on noise. Considerable practice with the stethoscope is required to become proficient at discerning engine noises.

Gear Nomenclature from Wikipedia.

The gear needs to look really good like the new gear below to be usable.

The engine’s timing gears can also be damaged by a lack of cambox oil in the fuel injection pump, a worn or damaged governor, camshaft, plunger(s) or bearings in the injection pump. Below is a Ford 4D Jerk type Fuel Injection Pump Cutaway. The lower 1/3 is the cambox with the fuel injection camshaft to which the governor weights and linkage are attached. The Ford 4D injection pump is driven by a spider coupling that helps absorb the torsional pulses that the camshaft and plungers produce before they reach the engine timing gears and cause wear. The “Rack” can be seen running from the governor throttle lever to the left past the injector pistons. For a complete description of this type injection pump see DIY: Engine Fuel.

Below is a fuel injection camshaft from a later Ford 6 cylinder Jerk Pump that was damaged by fuel deluded oil in the cambox. The camshaft components from left to right: 1) The last camshaft ball bearing. 2) The six camshaft lobes (one for each cylinder). 3) The governor weights and linkage. 4) The first camshaft ball bearing. 5) The drive gear taper, key and nut.

The engine’s timing gears can also be damaged by a worn or damaged camshaft, camshaft bearings or other valve train components.

PIX of Valve Train*

NOTE: Whenever the drive adapter is removed from the timing gear housing, be sure to check the condition of the pump driven gear and the adjacent gears. While this can give you a fairly good idea what the condition is of the other gears, a mechanics mirror and flashlight or a borescope will help you inspect more of the gears and removing the timing gear housing cover will expose all the gears for inspection. Inspection of ALL the gears should be accomplished periodically to prevent catastrophic failure and major damage to the engine. If all the worn gears are not replaced, the remaining worn gears will cause rapid wear of the new gears.

Overheat damage that typically results from a worn
coupling failure and the repairs required

When the coupling wears enough to fail, all raw water flow through the engine’s cooling system stops instantly. For this reason, the engine should be shut down as quickly as possible to limit the damage (an exhaust elbow overheat alarm would be an invaluable aid). Listed below are the engine components in the order that they are typically damaged if the engine continues to be run under load after a raw water pump failure:

1. Wet exhaust system hoses, shutters, pipes, mixing elbows, waterlifts, mufflers, exhaust discharges, etc. NOTE: If the raw water flow is restored and engine operation resumed without the wet exhaust system being repaired, the damaged components are likely to breach and flood the vessel. See Wet Exhaust System Damage When Raw Water Flow Stops).
2. Engine heat exchangers, oil coolers, charged air coolers, etc. See Minerals Coating Heat Exchangers and Coolers. See Heat Exchanger and Cooler Cracks Due To Overheating.
3. Antifreeze (boiling & loss)
4. Thermostat and temperature sensors, etc. NOTE: The engine’s overheat alarm will typically sound shortly before the sensors for the alarm and engine temperature gauges fail due to extreme heat. Beware, they are not to be trusted during and after an overheat. See Engine Sensor Damage that Results from an Engine Overheat.
5. Engine wiring, hoses, gaskets, paint, etc.
6. Pistons, rings and cylinders, etc. (scoring)
7. Connecting rods, rod bearings, main bearings, valve train, etc. (lack of lubrication due to oil overheating, carbonizing,+)
8. Engine Castings: Exhaust Manifolds, Heads, Cylinder Blocks, etc. See Engine Warping & Cracking that Results from Engine Overheating and possible “Hydrolocking“.

Most all of the damaged components above will require repair or replacement to return the engine to reliable service.

Installing an inexpensive exhaust elbow overheat alarm like the one below to give an early warning of a lack of adequate raw water flow is a excellent idea. When heeded, it can prevent most of the costly engine damage listed above.

NOTE: Unlike the installation above, be sure to properly support and secure the wires from the alarm sensor so the wiring does not fail from engine vibration induced fatigue rendering the alarm inoperative. And remember to support the wires so they do NOT make contact with a potentially hot component of the exhaust system especially in the event that the raw water flow were to reduce or stop for some reason. NO unprotected wiring should be in close proximity to any wet exhaust system component. See Proper Marine Wiring Techniques.

Engines Affected

All engines fitted with Jabsco 5850-0001 “Two-Shaft” raw water pumps including:
LEHMAN – FORD Dagenham & Dorset Series based diesel engines
CHRIS CRAFT – M Series (131 to 158 HP)
PALMER – DH 120
KERMATH – Sea Rover
LATHROP – LH Master-LH6-LH – Atom
OSCO – Hercules Diesel 685
UNIVERSAL – Super 6-Model Z
HERCULES – JX
(plus others)

“Fix” with new “Single-Shaft” Raw Water Pump

In the case of the Lehman marinized Ford UK engines, there is a “Single-Shaft” raw water pump with matching driven gear adapter that is available from suppliers like American Diesel Corp. NOTE: When installing this pump, remember to check the engine’s timing gears for wear. ANOTHER NOTE: This pump’s driven gear and shaft bearings should still be checked for wear periodically to prevent gear failure.

If the old “Two-Shaft” pump is still usable, It can probably be sold on eBay, etc. or kept as a spare. NOTE: It is best to keep the impeller separate in a zip-lock bag and install when needed rather then have it take a “set” in the pump. Keep some dish soap or non-petroleum based lubricant to aid the installation and to keep the blades from tearing off before the pump primes with water.

Because of the volume and velocity of the raw water flow in the engine’s cooling system, as mentioned before it is good practice to use sweeping elbows like the one used on the pump’s top (output) hose below (or an elbow with an even broader sweep) to make the hose connections to the pump, instead of a sharp tight elbow that will impede the water flow.

Note that by loosening the pump adapter clamp bolt (see Blue Arrow below), the pump can be rotated slightly in the adapter so the upper water elbow moves closer to the engine block to make more room to access the fuel injection pump cambox oil drain, etc.

It is always good practice to paint or otherwise protect metals from rust and corrosion in a marine application. The pump and especially the iron drive adapter should therefore be prepped, primed and painted. This can be done before the pump and adapter are installed on the engine. Note that the pump and adapter above have yet to be painted

Note that the bottom (inlet) hose to the pump is double clamped. Ensure that the hose barb on the fitting is long enough to accommodate the two clamps. Otherwise, hose failure is near certain. See Hose Failures – Causes and Cures.

It is NOT good practice to let hoses “hang” by their fittings. Hoses often pull apart right at the fittings as they age especially when subjected to engine vibration. Hose failure can lead to engine overheating, flooding of the bilges, and even sinking of the vessel. Some have made the mistake of securing the hoses from the engine to the vessel’s structure, however, if the engine is “soft” mounted to the engine bed, this will put even more stress on the hoses which will cause the hoses to fail even sooner. That is why it is best practice to support and secure engine hoses to the engine within inches of the fittings. On the engine above, the pump’s upper (outlet) hose travels only a short distance to the engine oil cooler, so it does not really need to be additionally supported, but can be. The pump’s lower (Inlet) hose needs to be supported and secured to the engine, but this would require a bracket as shown below to be attached to the engine to support and secure the hose. The bracket would need to be strong enough to NOT flex and succumb to reverse bending fatigue from engine vibration. Depending on the location of the thru-hull, seacock, or seastrainer, a sweeping elbow for the hose to attach to the pump may also be required.

PIX of hose bracket*

Upgrade to 1″ Water Pump

In the case of the Lehman-Ford engine, you may want to consider upgrading from any of the 3/4″ pumps to the larger 1″ pump to increase raw water flow, provide better, and more even cooling which is especially desirable in warmer climates and on engines under heavier loads and engines with turbochargers where hotspots can increase internal wear and shorten engine life. Hose reducers may be required to fit the larger pump or you may want to also upgrade the raw water intake thru-hull, seacock, seastrainer, fittings, hoses, coolers, heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, etc. to 1″ as well. Most engines are due for new hoses anyway.

Removing the Pump Drive Adapter from the Engine

In some instances, it may be difficult to remove the pump drive adapter from the engine’s timing gear housing. This can be especially true if the drive adapter housing is aluminum and the engine is warm or it has been installed with something like Permatex hardening type sealant.

If the engine is warm and the drive adapter housing is aluminum, the aluminum may have expanded enough from the heat to lock the adapter in the cast iron timing gear housing. Packing ice in a Zip-Lock bag around the adapter housing may cool and shrink the aluminum enough for the adapter to fall out or come out with a minimum of side tapping with a soft mallet. The plastic headed mallet shown below is weighted, so use caution. NOTE: Don’t forget to remove the Inside-lower drive adapter mounting bolt (at 7 o’clock position).

PIX of Adapter, ice and mallet*

In a pinch, a shot from a CO2 fire extinguisher will chill and shrink the aluminum drive adapter housing for removal, but remember, once discharged, a CO2 fire extinguisher may leak out the rest of its CO2 and become useless for extinguishing fires until serviced.

PIX of CO2 Fire Extinguisher*

If you must, carefully drive a wood chisel between the drive adapter and the timing gear housing near the outside-lower adapter mounting bolt where it should do the least amount of damage.

PIX of Adapter and chisel*

NOTE: Whenever working on the raw water pump when the boat is afloat, be sure to turn off the raw water intake thru-hull’s seacock and plug the hoses, especially the seawater source hose (see Blue Arrow). Otherwise you may want to keep a copy of you insurance’s phone number handy in addition to the one kept on your boat so you won’t have to go diving for it the next morning when you come back to your boat to work on it.

NOTE: If the engine is cold and the adapter is stuck in the timing gear housing, it may be helpful to warm it up by running the engine or warming up the timing gear housing with the aid of a heat gun, heat lamp or torch, and then applying the ice to the adapter as above. Always use extreme care using any heat source such as a torch to avoid having to collect from your insurance policy.

In Review

The “Two-Shaft” raw water pump shaft couplings will wear and fail due to:
1 – Normal torsional pulses generated as the impeller climbs over the pump cam.
2 – Abnormal wear caused by lack of lubricant packed in coupling.
3 – Early failure of the short-lived shaft bearings from age and use.
4 – Typical damage to the bearings due to long periods of dormancy. “Flat spots”.
5 – Damage to the shaft bearings during initial installation or replacement.
The best way to prevent this failure is to inspect the shaft bearings and couplings regularly.
Consider upgrading to the “Single-Shaft” water pump.

Raw water flow to the engine will stop instantly when the coupling fails resulting in:
1 – Serious overheat damage to the wet exhaust system.
2 – Serious overheat damage to the engine.
A valuable upgrade to prevent this expensive damage is an Exhaust Elbow Overheat Alarm.

The Pump adapter driven gear will wear and damage the timing gears due to:
1 – Normal torsional pulses generated as the impeller climbs over the pump cam.
2 – Abnormal “play” in the pump shaft coupling slots and tangs.
3 – Excess “play” in the pump shaft bearings from wear or damage.
4 – Internal wear in the fuel injection pump damaging the engine timing gears.
The best way to prevent this expensive damage is to regularly inspect the gears for wear.

*If you happen to have a picture that we are lacking, please email picture or link to:
Editor♥EverthingAboutBoats.org

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Literature & Manuals

Brochures
Jabsco Impeller Guide from Defender.com
Spec/Data Sheets with exploded views, parts lists, & Repair Instructions*
Jabsco Model 5850-0001 Water Pump (Data Sheet #43000-0202)
^  From DepcoPump.com (©2000 Rev. 8/2000) (2 Pages)
^  From PumpVendor.com (©2002 Rev. 01/03) (2 Pages)
^  From DepcoPump.com (©2012 Rev B dated 10/2012) (2 Pages)

Parts Schematics with exploded views and parts lists ^ALSO SEE DataSheets ABOVE^
Lehman Operators Manual & Parts ID #4C61J.

Page B17 shows that the drive coupling is only available with the bearing & shaft assembly #6.

Lehman Operators Manual & Parts ID #4C91 – SD80‚120‚SP90‚135‚185‚225‚275 (Ford 2720+)

3/4″ Pump (shown with straight-cut gear)

1″ Pump (shown with straight-cut gear)

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Forum Posts

+
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s6/lehman-120-raw-water-pump-3215-2.html
Our original pump failed in 2006 … replaced it with a new Jabsco. They see lots and lots of these engines and are a very reputable yard yet they didn’t know about the design flaw in the adapter. Well of course late in the afternoon in 2009 at the start of a night crossing of the Chesapeake the adapter failed and I had to replace the whole thing while being towed.
www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?169779-Lehman-2715E-water-pump

POST: “my surveyor says i have the old style water pump drive shaft. She recommends I replace it with a compact water pump that doesn’t use a drive shaft. Q: Is that good advice, and where can I get such a thing?”

REPLY: “The Lehman’s originally came with what you see on your engine. There is a weak spot in the system which is the screwdriver like connection between the driven gear that goes into the engine and the pump part which is aft and has the hoses connected to it. The screwdriver side will eventually break off and stop driving the pump. This leads to almost instant overheating due to loss of seawater coolant to the heat exchanger. Lehmans are very sensitive to overheating which is an expensive complication.
There is a replacement pump available which does away with the old style connection and problem. The new style comes in two sizes the 3/4″ or the 1″. The 3/4″ moves as much water as the original pump did. The 1″ moves more, which results in some extra cooling capacity, possibly good for your transmission and/or oil coolers.
Replacement parts for the old style drive system are getting hard to come by, old stock is all that is available IF you can find it. Bob Smith at American Diesel is often listed as a good source. He was VP of Lehman’s marinization project when the engines were first converted for marine use. Other distributors are certainly able to provide the same parts.
I would recommend that you either carry the new style pump as a spare for when yours goes bad, or better yet, buy and install the new pump and keep the old one and its associated pieces as your spare. By installing the new pump you insure that it fits, works, and that you have all the right hoses and fittings. The old one onboard as a spare insures you against some unforseen occurance like sucking a bunch of sand into the pump which scores the backing plate too much to pump water. I think your surveyors advice is sound. K”
T&T: Lehman raw water pump

POST: >I need to know what raw water pump these engines generally used, and impellor numbers

REPLY: The original water pump for the Ford Lehman 120 (don’t know about the FL135) was a Jabsco pump with a Lehman-designed drive unit that coupled the pump to the drive gear in the accessory case on the front of the engine. The impeller for the still-manufactured Jabsco pump is part number 1210-0003.
The Jabsco pump is a reasonably reliable unit. The Lehman-designed drive unit is not. Bob Smith at American Diesel, who designed the drive unit back when he was at Lehman Bros. told me that while it was the best solution at the time, it has proven to be trouble-prone. In fact, he told me it was the only component of the Lehman 120 marinization kit to have ever had a factory recall issued against it. Apparently the drive unit was very tricky to manufacture, and the design proved to have some weak spots. The most common problem is wear, cracking, and eventual failure of the “blade” end of the driveshaft, the end that mates into the drive slot on the Jabsco pump. When this blade finally breaks, the Jabsco pump stops turning and the engine temperature will soar. If it’s not caught immediately and the engine shut down, expensive damage to the engine will occur. While the pump is still available new, the Lehman drive unit is not. They can only be rebuilt and according to Bob, rebuilds are never very long-lived.
The solution, which we had applied to our boat last year when we discovered a cracked drive shaft end on one of our pump drive units, is to replace the Jabsco pump and Lehman drive unit with a new Johnson pump. These do not have the potential failure modes of the Lehman drive unit, and the pump itself is supposed to be better than the Jabsco pump. The “normal” size of Johnson pump for the FL120 is 3/4.” However the slightly more expensive 1″ version used on the FL135 will mount on the FL120 just fine using hose adaptors. We have the 1″ pump on our engines because the 3/4″ pump had a long manufacturing backlog at the time. One advantage of the 1″ pump is that it moves more water through the system. We don’t notice any difference in the engine temperature at cruise, but there is a noticeable reduction (by feel) of the transmission temperatures, which is a Good Thing.
+

 

Related AEABoats Webpages

+
See ~+Lehman Engine Damage Caused By Unchecked Gear Wear
~Fix engine drive gears before gears fail and serious internal engine damage results.
+

Related Articles

+
How To Rebuild A Raw Water Pump From Compass Marine
+

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Related Videos

• +
• Jabsco – How Does An Impeller Pump Work? from JabscoMarine
  Us tech guys at Jabsco and Rule thought “How cool would it be to show what’s going on inside an impeller pump!”. Well, with the help of our machinist who made us a clear end-cover and the addition of some dish-washing liquid, we were able to show you how the vanes fold over and push the liquid out of the pump head. Remember, don’t try this at home but it is wicked cool!
• Jabsco – Using an Impeller Puller – PN 50070-0200 et al. from JabscoMarine
  Is your boat’s engine running hot? Have you changed the impeller recently? No? So you go to check the impeller by removing the end-cover and what do you see…an impeller that once had 10 blades now has 6 and those are hanging on by a thread. You remembered that you already have a spare impeller in a Ziploc bag with a funky tool but you don’t know how to use it. Watch this video and we’ll show you how to use our most popular Jabsco impeller puller, the 50070-0200.
  
• +
• +

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Related Websites

• +
• www.xylemflowcontrol.com/jabsco
• www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine-and-rv/engine-cooling
• +

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Thanks to our amazing contributors for the steady flow of articles, and to our dedicated all-volunteer staff who sort, polish and format them, everyday we get a little bit closer to our goal of
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— TOP 20 MOST POPULAR ARTICLES —

Detroit Diesel 8.2 Liter “Fuel Pincher” V8 Engine
Cummins V-555 & VT-555 “Triple-Nickel” V8 Diesel Engine
Lehman 120 (6D380) Diesel Engine (Ford 2704C & 2715E)
Ford Industrial Power Products Diesel Engines
How to Identify Ford Diesel Engines
Ford 2715E Diesel Engine
Lehman Mfg. Co.
Perkins Engines
Universal Atomic 4
Sears Boat Motors: Motorgo, Waterwitch, Elgin, etc.
Chrysler & Force Outboards
Eska Outboard Motors
Allison Transmission
ZF Friedrichshafen AG
Marine Surveyors by Country
American Marine Ltd (Grand Banks)
Boat Inspection (Types of Marine Surveys)
Boat Builders: (A∼Z) (w/Vessel Types, Locale & Years Active)
USCG NVIC 07-95 Guidance on Inspection, Repair and Maintenance of Wooden Hulls
American Boat and Yacht Counsel (ABYC)

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Layout of the EverythingAboutBoats.org Website's Pages

— Types of Webpages —
This website consists almost entirely of 3 types of webpages as follows:

1. TOPIC PAGES (See Main Topic Pages listed on Website Contents or the Right Sidebar) ⇒
   • EXAMPLE: – WEBSITE CONTENTS w/Links to MAIN TOPIC & Subtopic Pages:
   • EXAMPLE: 02 – BOAT BUILDING, OUTFITTING, REFITTING & REPAIR:
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06 – Boat Equipment:
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06.08 – Propulsion Machinery:
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06.08.01 – Engines w/Directory of Vendors.
2. VENDOR PAGES (Vendors of Products, Services, Events,+, Destinations & Media Creators)
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06.08.01 –  ^  Ford Industrial Power Products Diesel Engines.
3. PRODUCT PAGES (Equipment, Events, Media: pDoc, Books, Magazines, Videos, Websites,+)
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06.08.01 –  ^   ^  Ford 2715E Diesel Engine.
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06.08.01 –  ^   ^  Ford OpManual - 2710 Range Diesel Engines.
   • EXAMPLE: 02.06.08.01 –  ^   ^  Ford Service Manual - 2700 & 2710 Range Diesel Engines.

Clickable Links that lead to other webpages appear in Blue Text and usually open in a new window.
Links in the Right Sidebar and most directories open in the current window, not a new window.
Note in the examples above that these pages form a natural hierarchy.
The unnumbered "^" pages are listed alphabetically in most tables.
Media Titles in tables are distinguished by their smaller font size.
Media (Books, Magazines, Videos, Articles,+) are treated as Products.
Vendors' Product Documentation (pDoc) are considered Media.
Destinations & Media Creators are treated as Vendors.
All Website Pages are optimized for viewing on
full-width disktop computer monitors,
but can be viewed on phones.

— Contents of Webpages —
Website Pages typically contain the following Sections:

1. PATH (Shows the chain of EAB pages w/links that lead to the page being viewed).
   1. EXAMPLE:
      PATH: HOME, WEBSITE INDEX, WEBSITE CONTENTS » ∨
      ∧ BOAT BUILDING & REPAIR » Boat Equipment » Propulsion » Engines » ∨∨
      ∧∧ Ford, Ebro, American Diesel, AmMarine, Barr, Beta, Bomac, Bowman, Couach,
      Lees, Lehman, Mermaid, Parsons, Renault, Sabre, Thornycroft, Wortham Blake »
      ∧ DO-IT-YOURSELF » DIY Boat Building & Repair » DIY Schools & Classes »
      ∧ MEDIA w/Creator Directory » Documentation, Books, Magazines, Videos, Websites »
   2. (The "»" right pointing Guillemet symbol shows the chain through the page links.)
   3. (The "," comma between page links in the chain indicates pages are not subordinate, but are instead at the same level. See engine brands in the example above.)
   4. (The "∨", "∨∨", "∨∨∨",+ symbols indicate that the path line continues with whatever follows the "∧", "∧∧", "∧∧∧",+ symbols respectively. "∧" Precedes each MAIN TOPIC Page.)
2. PAGE CONTENTS (Table of Contents with links to each main section on the page).
   
3. PAGE BODY (The type of page determines the contents of its body as follows:).
   1. TOPIC PAGES (Topic Treatment: Introduction, Overview, Background, Details,+).
      • (Many Topic Pages contain Directories of Vendors with Links).
      • (Most Directory Listings are Alphabetical and/or by Locale).
   2. VENDOR PAGES (Vendor's Profile, Contact Information, Products, Services,+).
      • (Manufacturers, Resellers, Refitters, Yards, Surveyors, Clubs, Schools, Authors,+).
      • (Boating & Travel Destinations are treated as Vendors on their own Vendor Pages).
   3. PRODUCT PAGES (Product Features, Vendor Links, Specifications, Documentation,+).
      • (Media created by a vendor is often treated as a Product on its own Product Page).
      • (Boating & Travel Events are often treated as Products on their own Product Pages).
4. RELATED RESOURCES (Topics, Vendors, Products, Media: Books, Websites,+ with Links).
5. PAGE TAIL Contains the following Anchors Aweigh Academy & EAB Website Features:
   1. The Anchors Aweigh Academy's EverythingAboutBoats.org Header.
   2. A link to our Featured Articles EAB Home Page.
   3. Top 20 Most Popular Articles. (The section that appears right above ⇑ this section).
   4. Layout of the EverythingAboutBoats.org Website's Pages. (This very section ⇐).
   5. Topics of Webpages. (The very next section below ⇓).
   6. What we have accomplished so far.
   7. Members must Sign-In to gain full access to Expanded Pages & Programs.
   8. Sign-Up (if not already a member).
   9. Public Comments (about the website & about this page).
6. RIGHT SIDEBAR (Website Contents menu with links to Main Topic & Subtopic pages).
   (On some smart phones, the Right Sidebar may appear at the bottom of the webpage)

— Topics of Webpages —
Website Pages are categorized under the following 16 MAIN TOPICS:

The MAIN TOPICS follow a natural progression from conception of the vessel thru its
building, marketing, survey, financing, insuring, transport, moorage, use and upkeep.
The MAIN TOPICS (all Caps) below are followed by their Main Subtopics with Links.

00 – HOME: CONTENTS, ABOUT EAB: Contact EAB, Abbreviations & Symbols, FAQ, GLOSSARY, ADs,+.
01 – ABOUT BOATS w/Museum Directory: Early History, Recent History, Modern Vessel Types,+.
02 – BOAT BUILDING, OUTFITTING, REFITTING & REPAIR: Materials, Equipment, Builders,+.
03 – BOAT MARKETING: Boat Shows, Dealers & Brokers, Importing & Exporting, Auctions & Sales,+.
04 – BOAT INSPECTION: Types of Marine Surveys, Marine Surveyors, Schools, DIY Inspections,+.
05 – BOAT TITLES & VESSEL REGISTRY: Boat Title & Registration, Vessel Registry, Title Co's,+.
06 – BOAT FINANCING: Conventional (Banks, Credit Unions,+), Unconventional (Creative),+.
07 – BOAT INSURANCE: Maritime & Recreational: Coverage, Carriers, Agents,+., Claim Processing,+.
08 – BOAT TRANSPORT: By Sea (Piggyback, Delivery Skippers & Crews, & Towing), Over-Land,+.
09 – BOAT HAULING & LAUNCHING: Drydocks, Ways, Lifts, Cranes & Hoists, Launch Ramps,+.
10 – BOAT MOORAGE & STORAGE: Builders, Anchorages, Marinas, Yards, Racks & Stacks,+.
11 – BOATING ORGANIZATIONS: Yacht Clubs & Sailing Clubs, Paddling Clubs, Boat Owners,+.
12 – BOATING & TRAVEL: Events, Destinations, Boat Rentals & Charters, Cruises, Voyages,+.
13 – BOATING & MARITIME EDUCATION: Recreational Seamanship, Ship's Master & Crew,+.
14 – MARINE LAWS & REGULATIONS: International & National Laws‚ Lawyers‚ Investigators‚+.
15 – DO-IT-YOURSELF: DIY Boat Building & Repair, DIY Boat Sales, DIY Boat Surveys, DIY Classes,+.
16 – MEDIA w/Creator Directory + Academy eLibrary: pDocs, Books, Magazines, Videos, Websites,+.

The above MAIN TOPICS and a more detailed listing of Subtopics
can be found on the Website Contents page and on the Right Sidebar.
An Alphabetical Index of the website can be accessed at Website Index.

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What we have accomplished so far.
Anchors Aweigh Academy and its EverythingAboutBoats.org website.

• Published over 50,000 website pages about boats and boating, bringing us closer to reaching our goal of becoming "The ultimate reference resource about boats and ships for everyone from the beginning recreational boater to the seasoned professional mariner!"
• Published over 300 website main topic webpages, many with full articles on the topic. See our Website Contents or the Right Sidebar for the listing of the main topic pages.
• Published over 9,000 marine vendor webpages, all with their contact information, most with a description of their products and services, many with product documentation, specifications and independent reviews. (incl.: Boat designers, boat building tools, material and equipment manufacturers and suppliers, boat builders and dealers, yacht brokers, marine surveyors, boat insurers, boat transporters, skippers and crews, boatyards and marinas, yacht clubs, boat rentals and yacht charters, boating, seamanship and maritime schools, marine law attorneys and expert witnesses, boat refitters and repairers, book authors, magazine publishers, video producers, and website creators)
• Acquired over 120,000 pages of product documentation including Catalogs, Brochures, SpecSheets, Pictures, Serial Number Guides, Installation Manuals, OpManuals, Parts Catalogs, Parts Bulletins, Shop Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, Service Bulletins, and Recalls. And have made all viewable to Academy Members through our EAB website eLibrary.
• Acquired over 1,200 books and magazine back issues in our academy library and so far have made over 700 viewable to Academy Members through our EAB website eLibrary.
• Published over 500 DIY How-To articles about boat design, construction, inspection, operation, maintenance, troubleshooting and repair. We are working hard to do more.

We are currently formatting and polishing the Anchors Aweigh Academy online and hands-on courses. Our Marine Surveying course has proven to be excellent for both the beginner and the seasoned surveyor, and especially helpful to the Do-It-Yourselfer.

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Current Academy Members must SIGN IN to gain FULL access to this
website including expanded pages and valuable Academy programs
like our Academy eLibrary and our Ask-An-Expert Program!
If your membership has expired, CLICK HERE to Renew.

IF YOU ARE NOT YET AN ANCHORS AWEIGH ACADEMY MEMBER,
CLICK HERE to discover how you can become a Member and gain FULL access to
thousands of expanded pages and articles, and dozens of excellent programs
WITH JUST A SMALL DONATION!

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General Comments About the Website

FROM Donald: "This is an awesome website. I found the information that I needed right away from one of the over 20,000 free articles that you provide as a public service. I'm surprised that so much if this site is free. But I still signed up so I could access the thousands of expanded pages, interesting articles, and dozens of valuable programs! The member's library of books, magazines and videos that I can view online is really terrific! I understand that you and your staff are all unpaid volunteers. Please keep up the good work. And I commend you for your plans to add another 10,000 free informative articles over the next year. I'm thrilled to support you in this endeavor with my small membership donation. Thanks again for all your hard work."

FROM Huey: "I agree with my Uncle, I too have found the articles to be very enlightening. They say that it will take about 100,000 articles to cover the full scope that they have envisioned for the website. They have over 20,000 articles so far and that's doing pretty well, but it could take several years to get the rest. I also noticed that many of the Main Topic Pages and some of the article pages are still in the rough draft stage. I guess that they will fill in as they can get volunteers to work on them. But what I can't figure out is why anyone would spend the time writing informative in depth articles just to give away free to this website for publication? What's in it for them?"

FROM Dewey: "Well Huey, to me It looks like most of the articles on this website are written by very informed people, like boating instructors, boat designers, boat builders, riggers, electricians, fitters, marine repair technicians and marine surveyors. Writing such articles helps establish them as knowledgeable professionals. After all, this website was originally created by a school for marine technicians and marine surveyors. The website is growing in content every day. They even had to move to a bigger, more powerful server because the website's traffic has been growing exponentially."

FROM Louie: "I agree with everyone above. This site is quickly becoming the ultimate reference resource about every aspect of boats and ships for everyone from the beginning recreational boater to the seasoned professional mariner. I use the topic pages on the right sidebar to browse around the website. It's like a Junior Woodchucks' Guidebook for Boaters. Their Members' Library of over 300 popular and obscure books and over 200 magazine back issues that can be viewed online is fabulous. The Academy's magazine is especially informative. On top of that, there is the "Ask-An-Expert program for members where you can get an expert's answer to any of your boat questions. And a whole years membership is only $25. What a deal! I really love being part of this "Everything About Boats" community and help provide thousands of helpful articles free to the public. I think that I'll sit down right now and write an article about my experiences boating with my uncle."

FROM Scrooge: "You rave about this website like it was the best thing since sliced bread. Well, I think it stinks. Sure, it has a lot of good information for boaters, and they're adding more every day, but it will probably never be finished. Furthermore, I don't even own a boat. And I wouldn't have a boat even if someone gave me one. Boats are a waste of money and time and energy and money! They're just a hole in the water you pour money into. If you gave me a boat, I'd sell it quicker then you could say Baggywrinkle. Then I'd lock up the cash with all my other money so I could keep my eye on it and count it every day. Bah humbug."

FROM Daisy: "I'm just so glad that Donald got the boat so we and the boys could enjoy boating — together. And of course all of the girls, April, May, and June, love to be on the water too, especially when that is where the boys are. Oh poor Scrooge, boating is more fun then you could possibly imagine."

FROM Scrooge: "After seeing how much fun you all have on the water together, I regret that I didn't have that much fun when I was young. I've had a change of heart, and I'm giving each of you a Lifetime Academy Membership."

FROM Editor: "For those of you that have stayed with us this far, many thanks, and we hope that you found this little narrative informative. Your faithful support inspires us to keep working on this phenomenal website. We know that we have a lot more to do. Ultimately, we hope that we can help you enjoy the wonder filled world of boating as much as we do. We are all waiting to see what you have to say about this webpage article. Submit any comments via email To: Comments♥EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♥" with "@"). Be sure to include this page's title in the subject line. Also, your corrections, updates, additions and suggestions are welcomed. Please submit them via email To: Editor♥EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♥" with "@"). It has been truly amazing to see what we have been able to accomplished when we've worked together. Thanks to all those that have donated their valuable time and energy, and a special THANK YOU to all that have supported this cause with their membership donations."

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