Ground Tackle

PATH: Boat Building » Boat Equipment > Deck Hdw & Equipment >


PAGE CONTENTS: (clickto go to each section on this page)
⇒ Topic Treatment: Introduction, Overview, Background, Details, Directories,+.
⇒ ^ Related Resources: EAB Topics w/Directories, Vendors, Products: Media: Books, Websites,+.
Visit EAB's FEATURED ARTICLES Home Page to preview the vast scope of our website.
This Month's Top 20 Most Popular Articles on our EAB website.
⇒ Layout of the EverythingAboutBoats.org Website's Pages: Page Types, Contents, Topics,+.
⇒ What our nonprofit Anchors Aweigh Academy and its EAB website have accomplished.
Members must SIGN IN to gain access to Members Only areas of this website.
Become an Academy Member and gain access to additional pages and programs!
⇒ Comments: Submit To ⇒ Comments♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@").


THIS ARTICLE IS STILL EVOLVING!
The page may contain rough drafts that include raw source materials.

ΞPIXΞ
ΞCaptionΞ

Ground Tackle consists of an Anchor, the Rode, and the devices that attach everything together. Usually there will also be a winch (capstan with a vertical drum or windlass with a horizontal drum) to haul the anchor aboard.

An anchor is a device, normally made of metal, used to secure a vessel to the bed of a body of water to prevent the craft from drifting due to wind or current. The word derives from Latin ancora, which itself comes from the Greek ἄγκυρα (ankȳra).

Anchors can either be temporary or permanent. Permanent anchors are used in the creation of a mooring, and are rarely moved; a specialist service is normally needed to move or maintain them. Vessels carry one or more temporary anchors, which may be of different designs and weights.

A sea anchor is a drag device, not in contact with the seabed, used to minimize drift of a vessel relative to the water. A drogue is a drag device used to slow or help steer a vessel running before a storm in a following or overtaking sea, or when crossing a bar in a breaking sea.

Overview

Anchors achieve holding power either by “hooking” into the seabed, or mass, or a combination of the two. Permanent moorings use large masses (commonly a block or slab of concrete) resting on the seabed. Semi-permanent mooring anchors (such as mushroom anchors) and large ship’s anchors derive a significant portion of their holding power from their mass, while also hooking or embedding in the bottom. Modern anchors for smaller vessels have metal flukes which hook on to rocks on the bottom or bury themselves in soft seabed.

The vessel is attached to the anchor by the rode (also called a cable or a warp) It can be made of rope, chain or a combination of rope and chain. The ratio of the length of rode to the water depth is known as the scope (see below).

Holding ground

Holding ground is the area of sea floor which holds an anchor, and thus the attached ship or boat. Different types of anchor are designed to hold in different types of holding ground. Some bottom materials hold better than others; for instance, hard sand holds well, shell very poorly. Holding ground may be fouled with obstacles. An anchorage location may be chosen for its holding ground. In poor holding ground, only the weight of an anchor matters; in good holding ground, it is able to dig in, and the holding power can be significantly higher.

History

Evolution of the anchor

Anchors come in a wide variety of shapes, types, and sizes for different conditions, functions and vessels;

The earliest anchors were probably rocks, and many rock anchors have been found dating from at least the Bronze Age. Pre-European Maori waka (canoes) used one or more hollowed stones, tied with flax ropes, as anchors. Many modern moorings still rely on a large rock as the primary element of their design. However, using pure mass to resist the forces of a storm only works well as a permanent mooring; a large enough rock would be nearly impossible to move to a new location.

The ancient Greeks used baskets of stones, large sacks filled with sand, and wooden logs filled with lead. According to Apollonius Rhodius and Stephen of Byzantium, anchors were formed of stone, and Athenaeus states that they were also sometimes made of wood. Such anchors held the vessel merely by their weight and by their friction along the bottom.

Fluked anchors

Iron was afterwards introduced for the construction of anchors, and an improvement was made by forming them with teeth, or “flukes”, to fasten themselves into the bottom. This is the iconic anchor shape most familiar to non-sailors.

This form has been used since antiquity. The Roman Nemi ships of the 1st century AD used this form. The Viking Ladby ship (probably 10th century) used a fluked anchor of this type, made entirely of iron.

Admiralty anchor

The Admiralty Pattern anchor, or simply “Admiralty”, also known as a “Fisherman”, consists of a central shank with a ring or shackle for attaching the rode (the rope, chain, or cable connecting the ship and the anchor). At the other end of the shank there are two arms, carrying the flukes, while the stock is mounted to the shackle end, at ninety degrees to the arms. When the anchor lands on the bottom, it will generally fall over with the arms parallel to the seabed. As a strain comes onto the rope, the stock will dig into the bottom, canting the anchor until one of the flukes catches and digs into the bottom.

The Admiralty Anchor is an entirely independent reinvention of a classical design, as seen in one of the Nemi ship anchors. This basic design remained unchanged for centuries, with the most significant changes being to the overall proportions, and a move from stocks made of wood to iron stocks in the late 1830s and early 1840s.

Since one fluke always protrudes up from the set anchor, there is a great tendency of the rode to foul the anchor as the vessel swings due to wind or current shifts. When this happens, the anchor may be pulled out of the bottom, and in some cases may need to be hauled up to be re-set. In the mid-19th century, numerous modifications were attempted to alleviate these problems, as well as improve holding power, including one-armed mooring anchors. The most successful of these patent anchors, the Trotman Anchor, introduced a pivot at the centre of the crown where the arms join the shank, allowing the “idle” upper arm to fold against the shank. When deployed the lower arm may fold against the shank tilting the tip of the fluke upwards, so each fluke has a tripping palm at its base, to hook on the bottom as the folded arm drags along the seabed, which unfolds the downward oriented arm until the tip of the fluke can engage the bottom.

Handling and storage of these anchors requires special equipment and procedures. Once the anchor is hauled up to the hawsepipe, the ring end is hoisted up to the end of a timber projecting from the bow known as the cathead. The crown of the anchor is then hauled up with a heavy tackle until one fluke can be hooked over the rail. This is known as “catting and fishing” the anchor. Before dropping the anchor, the fishing process is reversed, and the anchor is dropped from the end of the cathead.

The stockless anchor, patented in England in 1821, represented the first significant departure in anchor design in centuries. Though their holding-power-to-weight ratio is significantly lower than admiralty pattern anchors, their ease of handling and stowage aboard large ships led to almost universal adoption. In contrast to the elaborate stowage procedures for earlier anchors, stockless anchors are simply hauled up until they rest with the shank inside the hawsepipes, and the flukes against the hull (or inside a recess in the hull).

While there are numerous variations, stockless anchors consist of a set of heavy flukes connected by a pivot or ball and socket joint to a shank. Cast into the crown of the anchor is a set of tripping palms, projections that drag on the bottom, forcing the main flukes to dig in.

Small boat anchors

Until the mid-20th century, anchors for smaller vessels were either scaled-down versions of admiralty anchors, or simple grapnels. As new designs with greater holding-power-to-weight ratios were sought, a great variety of anchor designs has emerged. Many of these designs are still under patent, and other types are best known by their original trademarked names.

Grapnel anchor

A traditional design, the grapnel is merely a shank with four or more tines. It has a benefit in that, no matter how it reaches the bottom, one or more tines will be aimed to set. In coral, or rock, it is often able to set quickly by hooking into the structure, but may be more difficult to retrieve. A grapnel is often quite light, and may have additional uses as a tool to recover gear lost overboard. Its weight also makes it relatively easy to move and carry, however its shape is generally not very compact and it may be awkward to stow unless a collapsing model is used.

Grapnels rarely have enough fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay, or mud. It is not unknown for the anchor to foul on its own rode, or to foul the tines with refuse from the bottom, preventing it from digging in. On the other hand, it is quite possible for this anchor to find such a good hook that, without a trip line from the crown, it is impossible to retrieve.

Herreshoff anchor

Designed by yacht designer L. Francis Herreshoff, this is essentially the same pattern as an admiralty anchor, albeit with small diamond-shaped flukes or palms. The novelty of the design lay in the means by which it could be broken down into three pieces for stowage. In use, it still presents all the issues of the admiralty pattern anchor.

Northill anchor

Originally designed as a lightweight anchor for seaplanes, this design consists of two plough-like blades mounted to a shank, with a folding stock crossing through the crown of the anchor.

CQR plough anchor

Many manufacturers produce a plough-type anchor, so-named after its resemblance to an agricultural plough. All such anchors are copied from the original CQR (Coastal Quick Release, or Clyde Quick Release, later rebranded as ‘secure’ by Lewmar), a 1933 design patented in the UK by mathematician Geoffrey Ingram Taylor.

Plough anchors stow conveniently in a roller at the bow, and have been popular with cruising sailors and private boaters. Ploughs can be moderately good in all types of seafloor, though not exceptional in any. Contrary to popular belief, the CQR’s hinged shank is not to allow the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out, but actually to prevent the shank’s weight from disrupting the fluke’s orientation while setting. The hinge can wear out and may trap a sailor’s fingers. Some later plough anchors have a rigid shank, such as the Lewmar’s “Delta”.

A plough anchor has a fundamental flaw: like its namesake, the agricultural plough, it will dig in but then tends to break out back to the surface. Plough anchors sometimes have difficulty setting at all, and instead skip across the seafloor. By contrast, modern efficient anchors tend to be “scoop” types that dig ever deeper.

Delta anchor

The Delta anchor was derived from the CQR. It was patented by Philip McCarron, James Stewart, and Gordon Lyall of British marine manufacturer Simpson-Lawrence Ltd in 1992. It was designed as an advance over the anchors used for floating systems such as oil rigs. It retains the weighted tip of the CQR but has a much higher fluke area to weight ratio than its predecessor. The designers also eliminated the sometimes troublesome hinge. It is a plough anchor with a rigid, arched shank. It is described as self-launching because it can be dropped from a bow roller simply by paying out the rode, without manual assistance. This is an oft copied design with the European Brake and Australian Sarca Excel being two of the more notable ones. Although it is a plough type anchor, it sets and holds reasonably well in hard bottoms.

Danforth anchor

American Richard Danforth invented the Danforth Anchor in the 1940s for use aboard landing craft. It uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom (and on some designs may be adjusted for an optimal angle depending on the bottom type). Tripping palms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop high resistance. Its lightweight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store; some anchor rollers and hawsepipes can accommodate a fluke-style anchor.

A Danforth will not usually penetrate or hold in gravel or weeds. In boulders and coral it may hold by acting as a hook. If there is much current, or if the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor, it may “kite” or “skate” over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing.

The FOB HP anchor designed in Brittany in the 1970s is a Danforth variant designed to give increased holding through its use of rounded flukes setting at a 30° angle.

The Fortress is an American aluminum alloy Danforth variant which can be disassembled for storage and it features an adjustable 32° and 45° shank/fluke angle to improve holding capability in common sea bottoms such as hard sand and soft mud. This anchor performed well in a 1989 US Naval Sea Systems Command (NAVSEA) test and in an August 2014 holding power test that was conducted in the soft mud bottoms of the Chesapeake Bay.

Bruce or claw anchor

The Bruce anchor was an evolutionary improvement in its day. It is most effective in larger sizes
This claw-shaped anchor was designed by Peter Bruce from the Isle of Man in the 1970s. Bruce gained his early reputation from the production of large-scale commercial anchors for ships and fixed installations such as oil rigs. It was later scaled down for small boats, and copies of this very popular design abound. The Bruce and its copies, known generically as “claw type anchors”, have been adopted on smaller boats (partly because they stow easily on a bow roller) but they are most effective in larger sizes. Claw anchors are quite popular on charter fleets as their percentage set on the first try in many bottom types is very high. They have the reputation of not breaking out with tide or wind changes, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force.

Bruce anchors can have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and grass. They offer a fairly low holding-power-to-weight ratio and generally have to be oversized to compete with newer types.

Scoop type anchors

Three time circumnavigator German Rolf Kaczirek invented the Bügel Anker in the 1980s. Kaczirek wanted an anchor that was self-righting without necessitating a ballasted tip. Instead he added a roll bar. Instead of a plough share, he used a flat blade design. As none of the innovations of this anchor were patented, copies of it abound.

Alain Poiraud of France introduced the scoop type anchor in 1996. Similar in design to the Bügel anchor, Poiraud’s design features a concave fluke shaped like the blade of a shovel, with a shank attached parallel to the fluke, and the load applied toward the digging end. It is designed to dig into the bottom like a shovel, and dig deeper as more pressure is applied. The common challenge with all the scoop type anchors is that they set so well, they can be difficult to weigh.

Bügelanker, or Wasi: This German-designed bow anchor has a sharp tip for penetrating weed, and features a roll-bar which allows the correct setting attitude to be achieved without the need for extra weight to be inserted into the tip.

Spade: This is a French design which has proved successful since 1996. It features a demountable shank (hollow in some instances) and the choice of galvanized steel, stainless steel, or aluminium construction, which means a lighter and more easily stowable anchor. The geometry also makes this anchor self stowing on a single roller.

Rocna: This New Zealand spade design, available in galvanised or stainless steel, has been produced since 2004. It has a roll-bar (similar to that of the Bügel), a large spade-like fluke area, and a sharp toe for penetrating weed and grass. The Rocna sets quickly and holds well.

Mantus: This is claimed to be a fast setting anchor with high holding power. It is designed as an all round anchor capable of setting even in challenging bottoms such as hard sand/clay bottoms and grass. The shank is made out of a high tensile steel capable of withstanding high loads. It is similar in design to the Rocna but has a larger and wider roll-bar that reduces the risk of fouling and increases the angle of the fluke which results in improved penetration in some bottoms.

Ultra: This is an innovative spade design that dispenses with a roll-bar. Made primarily of stainless steel, its main arm is hollow, while the fluke tip has lead within it. It is very similar in appearance to the Spade anchor.

Vulcan: A recent sibling to the Rocna, this anchor performs similarly but does not have a roll-bar. Instead the Vulcan has patented design features such as the “V-bulb” and the “Roll Palm” that allow it to dig in deeply. The Vulcan was designed primarily for sailors who had difficulties accommodating the roll-bar Rocna on their bow. Peter Smith (originator of the Rocna) designed it specifically for larger powerboats. Both Vulcans and Rocnas are available in galvanised steel, or in stainless steel. The Vulcan is very similar in appearance to the Spade anchor.

Knox Anchor: This is produced in Scotland and was invented by Professor John Knox. It has a divided concave large area fluke arrangement and a shank in high tensile steel. A roll bar similar to the Rocna gives fast setting and a holding power of about 40 times anchor weight.

Other temporary anchors

Mud weight: Consists of a blunt heavy weight, usually cast iron or cast lead, that will sink into the mud and resist lateral movement. Suitable only for very soft silt bottoms and in mild conditions. Sizes range between 5 and 20 kg for small craft. Various designs exist and many are home produced from lead or improvised with heavy objects. This is a very commonly used method on the Norfolk Broads in England.

Bulwagga: This is a unique design featuring three flukes instead of the usual two. It has performed well in tests by independent sources such as American boating magazine Practical Sailor.

Permanent anchors

These are used where the vessel is permanently or semi-permanently sited, for example in the case of lightvessels or channel marker buoys. The anchor needs to hold the vessel in all weathers, including the most severe storm, but needs to be lifted only occasionally, at most – for example, only if the vessel is to be towed into port for maintenance. An alternative to using an anchor under these circumstances, especially if the anchor need never be lifted at all, may be to use a pile which is driven into the seabed.

Permanent anchors come in a wide range of types and have no standard form. A slab of rock with an iron staple in it to attach a chain to would serve the purpose, as would any dense object of appropriate weight (for instance, an engine block). Modern moorings may be anchored by augers, which look and act very much like oversized screws drilled into the seabed, or by barbed metal beams pounded in (or even driven in with explosives) like pilings, or by a variety of other non-mass means of getting a grip on the bottom. One method of building a mooring is to use three or more conventional anchors laid out with short lengths of chain attached to a swivel, so no matter which direction the vessel moves, one or more anchors will be aligned to resist the force.

Mushroom

The mushroom anchor is suitable where the seabed is composed of silt or fine sand. It was invented by Robert Stevenson, for use by an 82-ton converted fishing boat, Pharos, which was used as a lightvessel between 1807 and 1810 near to Bell Rock whilst the lighthouse was being constructed. It was equipped with a 1.5-ton example.

It is shaped like an inverted mushroom, the head becoming buried in the silt. A counterweight is often provided at the other end of the shank to lay it down before it becomes buried.

A mushroom anchor will normally sink in the silt to the point where it has displaced its own weight in bottom material, thus greatly increasing its holding power. These anchors are only suitable for a silt or mud bottom, since they rely upon suction and cohesion of the bottom material, which rocky or coarse sand bottoms lack. The holding power of this anchor is at best about twice its weight until it becomes buried, when it can be as much as ten times its weight. They are available in sizes from about 5 kg up to several tons.

Deadweight

This is an anchor which relies solely on being a heavy weight. It is usually just a large block of concrete or stone at the end of the chain. Its holding power is defined by its weight underwater (i.e. taking its buoyancy into account) regardless of the type of seabed, although suction can increase this if it becomes buried. Consequently, deadweight anchors are used where mushroom anchors are unsuitable, for example in rock, gravel or coarse sand. An advantage of a deadweight anchor over a mushroom is that if it does become dragged, then it continues to provide its original holding force. The disadvantage of using deadweight anchors in conditions where a mushroom anchor could be used is that it needs to be around ten times the weight of the equivalent mushroom anchor.

Auger

Auger anchors can be used to anchor permanent moorings, floating docks, fish farms, etc. These anchors, which have one or more slightly pitched self-drilling threads, must be screwed into the seabed with the use of a tool, so require access to the bottom, either at low tide or by use of a diver. Hence they can be difficult to install in deep water without special equipment.

Weight for weight, augers have a higher holding than other permanent designs, and so can be cheap and relatively easily installed, although difficult to set in extremely soft mud.

High-holding-types

There is a need in the oil-and-gas industry to resist large anchoring forces when laying pipelines and for drilling vessels. These anchors are installed and removed using a support tug and pennant/pendant wire. Some examples are the Stevin range supplied by Vrijhof Ankers. Large plate anchors such as the Stevmanta are used for permanent moorings.

Anchoring gear

The elements of anchoring gear include the anchor, the cable (also called a rode), the method of attaching the two together, the method of attaching the cable to the ship, charts, and a method of learning the depth of the water.

Vessels may carry a number of anchors: bower anchors (formerly known as sheet anchors) are the main anchors used by a vessel and normally carried at the bow of the vessel. A kedge anchor is a light anchor used for warping an anchor, also known as kedging, or more commonly on yachts for mooring quickly or in benign conditions. A stream anchor, which is usually heavier than a kedge anchor, can be used for kedging or warping in addition to temporary mooring and restraining stern movement in tidal conditions or in waters where vessel movement needs to be restricted, such as rivers and channels.

Charts are vital to good anchoring. Knowing the location of potential dangers, as well as being useful in estimating the effects of weather and tide in the anchorage, is essential in choosing a good place to drop the hook. One can get by without referring to charts, but they are an important tool and a part of good anchoring gear, and a skilled mariner would not choose to anchor without them.

Anchor rode

The anchor rode (or “cable” or “warp”) that connects the anchor to the vessel will usually be made up of chain, rope, or a combination of those. Large ships will use only chain rode. Smaller craft might use a rope/chain combination or an all chain rode. All rodes should have some chain; chain is heavy but it resists abrasion from coral, sharp rocks, or shellfish beds, whereas a rope warp is susceptible to abrasion and can fail in a short time when stretched against an abrasive surface. The weight of the chain also helps keep the direction of pull on the anchor closer to horizontal, which improves holding, and absorbs part of snubbing loads. Where weight is not an issue, a heavier chain provides better holding by forming a catenary curve through the water and resting as much of its length on the bottom as will not be lifted by tension of the mooring load. Any changes to the tension are accommodated by additional chain bing lifted or settling on the bottom, and this absorbs shock loads until the chain is straight, at which point the full load is taken by the anchor. Additional dissipation of shock loads can be achieved by fitting a snubber between the chain and a bollard or cleat on deck. This also reduces shock loads on the deck fittings,and the vessel will usually lie more comfortably and quietly.

Being strong and elastic, nylon rope is the most suitable as an anchor rode. Polyester (terylene) is stronger but less elastic than nylon. Both materials sink, so they avoid fouling other craft in crowded anchorages and do not absorb much water. Neither breaks down quickly in sunlight. Elasticity helps absorb shock loading, but causes faster abrasive wear when the rope stretches over an abrasive surface, like a coral bottom or a poorly designed chock. Polypropylene (“polyprop”) is not suited to rodes because it floats and is much weaker than nylon, being barely stronger than natural fibres. Some grades of polypropylene break down in sunlight and become hard, weak, and unpleasant to handle. Natural fibres such as manila or hemp are still used in developing nations but absorb a lot of water, are relatively weak, and rot, although they do give good handling grip and are often relatively cheap. Ropes that have little or no elasticity are not suitable as anchor rodes. Elasticity is partly a function of the fibre material and partly of the rope structure.

All anchors should have chain at least equal to the boat’s length. Some skippers prefer an all chain warp for greater security on coral or sharp edged rock bottoms. The chain should be shackled to the warp through a steel eye or spliced to the chain using a chain splice. The shackle pin should be securely wired or moused. Either galvanized or stainless steel is suitable for eyes and shackles, galvanised steel being the stronger of the two. Some skippers prefer to add a swivel to the rode. There is a school of thought that says these should not be connected to the anchor itself, but should be somewhere in the chain. However, most skippers will connect the swivel directly to the anchor.

Scope

Scope is the ratio of the depth of the water measured from the highest point (usually the anchor roller or bow chock) to the seabed, making allowance for the highest expected tide. The function of this ratio is to ensure that the pull on the anchor is unlikely to break it out of the bottom if it is embedded, or lift it off a hard bottom, either of which is likely to result in the anchor dragging. A large scope induces a load which is nearly horizontal.

In moderate conditions the ratio of rode to water depth should be 4:1 – where there is sufficient swing-room, a greater scope is always better. In rougher conditions it should be up to twice this with the extra length giving more stretch and a smaller angle to the bottom to resist the anchor breaking out. For example, if the water is 8 metres (26 ft) deep, and the anchor roller is 1 m (3 ft) above the water, then the ‘depth’ is 9 meters (~30 feet). The amount of rode to let our in moderate conditions is thus 36 meters (120 feet). (For this reason it is important to have a reliable and accurate method of measuring the depth of water.)

When using a rope rode, there is a simple way to estimate the scope: The ratio of bow height of the rode to length of rode above the water while lying back hard on the anchor is the same or less than the scope ratio. The basis for this is simple geometry (Intercept Theorem): The ratio between two sides of a triangle stays the same regardless of the size of the triangle as long as the angles do not change.

Generally, the rode should be between 5 and 10 times the depth to the seabed, giving a scope of 5:1 or 10:1; the larger the number, the shallower the angle is between the cable and the seafloor, and the less upwards force is acting on the anchor. A 10:1 scope gives the greatest holding power, but also allows for much more drifting due to the longer amount of cable paid out. Anchoring with sufficient scope and/or heavy chain rode brings the direction of strain close to parallel with the seabed. This is particularly important for light, modern anchors designed to bury in the bottom, where scopes of 5:1 to 7:1 are common, whereas heavy anchors and moorings can use a scope of 3:1, or less. Some modern anchors, such as the Ultra will hold with a scope of 3:1; but, unless the anchorage is crowded, a longer scope will always reduce shock stresses.

Anchoring techniques

The basic anchoring consists of determining the location, dropping the anchor, laying out the scope, setting the hook, and assessing where the vessel ends up. The ship will seek a location which is sufficiently protected; has suitable holding ground, enough depth at low tide and enough room for the boat to swing.

The location to drop the anchor should be approached from down wind or down current, whichever is stronger. As the chosen spot is approached, the vessel should be stopped or even beginning to drift back. The anchor should initially be lowered quickly but under control until it is on the bottom (see anchor windlass). The vessel should continue to drift back, and the cable should be veered out under control (slowly) so it will be relatively straight.

Colored plastic inserts on a modern anchor chain show the operator how much chain has been paid out. This knowledge is very important in all anchoring methods

Once the desired scope is laid out, the vessel should be gently forced astern, usually using the auxiliary motor but possibly by backing a sail. A hand on the anchor line may telegraph a series of jerks and jolts, indicating the anchor is dragging, or a smooth tension indicative of digging in. As the anchor begins to dig in and resist backward force, the engine may be throttled up to get a thorough set. If the anchor continues to drag, or sets after having dragged too far, it should be retrieved and moved back to the desired position (or another location chosen.)

There are techniques of anchoring to limit the swing of a vessel if the anchorage has limited room:

Using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel

Lowering a concentrated, heavy weight down the anchor line – rope or chain – directly in front of the bow to the seabed behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers the angle of pull on the anchor. If the weight is suspended off the seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight ineffective. Known as an “anchor chum weight” or “angel” in the UK.

Forked moor

Using two anchors set approximately 45° apart, or wider angles up to 90°, from the bow is a strong mooring for facing into strong winds. To set anchors in this way, first one anchor is set in the normal fashion. Then, taking in on the first cable as the boat is motored into the wind and letting slack while drifting back, a second anchor is set approximately a half-scope away from the first on a line perpendicular to the wind. After this second anchor is set, the scope on the first is taken up until the vessel is lying between the two anchors and the load is taken equally on each cable. This moor also to some degree limits the range of a vessel’s swing to a narrower oval. Care should be taken that other vessels will not swing down on the boat due to the limited swing range.

Bow and stern

(Not to be mistaken with the Bahamian moor, below.) In the bow and stern technique, an anchor is set off each the bow and the stern, which can severely limit a vessel’s swing range and also align it to steady wind, current or wave conditions. One method of accomplishing this moor is to set a bow anchor normally, then drop back to the limit of the bow cable (or to double the desired scope, e.g. 8:1 if the eventual scope should be 4:1, 10:1 if the eventual scope should be 5:1, etc.) to lower a stern anchor. By taking up on the bow cable the stern anchor can be set. After both anchors are set, tension is taken up on both cables to limit the swing or to align the vessel.

Bahamian moor

Similar to the above, a Bahamian moor is used to sharply limit the swing range of a vessel, but allows it to swing to a current. One of the primary characteristics of this technique is the use of a swivel as follows: the first anchor is set normally, and the vessel drops back to the limit of anchor cable. A second anchor is attached to the end of the anchor cable, and is dropped and set. A swivel is attached to the middle of the anchor cable, and the vessel connected to that.

The vessel will now swing in the middle of two anchors, which is acceptable in strong reversing currents, but a wind perpendicular to the current may break out the anchors, as they are not aligned for this load.

Backing an anchor

Also known as tandem anchoring, in this technique two anchors are deployed in line with each other, on the same rode. With the foremost anchor reducing the load on the aft-most, this technique can develop great holding power and may be appropriate in “ultimate storm” circumstances. It does not limit swinging range, and might not be suitable in some circumstances. There are complications, and the technique requires careful preparation and a level of skill and experience above that required for a single anchor.

Kedging

In yachts, a kedge anchor is an anchor carried in addition to the main, or bower anchors, and usually stowed aft. Every yacht should carry at least two anchors – the main or bower anchor and a second lighter kedge anchor. It is used occasionally when it is necessary to limit the turning circle as the yacht swings when it is anchored, such as in a very narrow river or a deep pool in an otherwise shallow area. Kedge anchors are sometimes used to recover vessels that have run aground.

For ships, a kedge may be dropped while a ship is underway, or carried out in a suitable direction by a tender or ship’s boat to enable the ship to be winched off if aground or swung into a particular heading, or even to be held steady against a tidal or other stream.

Historically, it was of particular relevance to sailing warships which used them to outmaneuver opponents when the wind had dropped but might be used by any vessel in confined, shoal water to place it in a more desirable position, provided she had enough manpower.

Club hauling

Club hauling is an archaic technique. When a vessel is in a narrow channel or on a lee shore so that there is no room to tack the vessel in a conventional manner, an anchor attached to the lee quarter may be dropped from the lee bow. This is deployed when the vessel is head to wind and has lost headway. As the vessel gathers sternway the strain on the cable pivots the vessel around what is now the weather quarter turning the vessel onto the other tack. The anchor is then normally cut away, as it cannot be recovered.

Weighing anchor

Since all anchors that embed themselves in the bottom require the strain to be along the seabed, anchors can be broken out of the bottom by shortening the rope until the vessel is directly above the anchor; at this point the anchor chain is “up and down”, in naval parlance. If necessary, motoring slowly around the location of the anchor also helps dislodge it. Anchors are sometimes fitted with a trip line attached to the crown, by which they can be unhooked from rocks, coral, chain, or other underwater hazards.

The term aweigh describes an anchor when it is hanging on the rope and is not resting on the bottom. This is linked to the term to weigh anchor, meaning to lift the anchor from the sea bed, allowing the ship or boat to move. An anchor is described as aweigh when it has been broken out of the bottom and is being hauled up to be stowed. Aweigh should not be confused with under way, which describes a vessel which is not moored to a dock or anchored, whether or not the vessel is moving through the water. Aweigh is also often confused with away, which is incorrect.

From Wikipedia.


Directory of Vendors

  • +
  • +

Please do not try to contact any of the vendors on this website via our EverythingAboutBoats.org Phone, Email or Comment Systems. Your message will NOT be forwarded to the vendor.
Contact vendors directly (if still active).

If any vendors should be added to this Directory, please submit their info/links via email To:
Editor♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@").


Related Resources:
Topic Pages w/Directories, Vendors, Products: Media: Books, Websites, etc.
Categorized by Topic & Hierarchy w/Links (Sitemap).

TABLE KEY: Resource Types are identified by the following Resource Codes (RC).
T = Topic Page.
TD = Topic Page w/Directory
V = Vendor Page.
VO = Vendor's Offerings.
VW = Vendor's Website.
MV = Media Vendor/Creator.
MS = Media Source.
P = Product Page.
PD = Product Documentation.
B = Book.
BB = Book - Biography.
BE = Book Excerpt.
BF = Book - Fiction.
M = Magazine.
MI = Magazine Issue.
MA = Magazine Article.
Vid = Video.
W = Website.
WA = Website Article.
WV = Website Video (incl. YouTube).
F = Forum.
FP = Forum Post.
S = Social Media.
SP = Social Media Post.
NOTES: Resource Codes are arranged above by resource directory hierarchy.
Resource Codes are displayed in the Right Column labeled "RC".  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒  ⇒ ⇓
Resource Codes which are BOLD indicate Media is available from our Academy eLibrary.⇒ ⇓
^ To view Media, Click on the Media Title to go to our webpage for that media and then:
^ ^ Scroll down to the Academy eLibrary section for media viewing instructions.
Resource Media (Books, Magazines, Videos, etc.) Titles are displayed in a smaller font.
Resource Titles below are arranged by hierarchy using "^" to show subordination.
Resource Links which are BOLD lead to EverythingAboutBoats.com ON-SITE pages.
Resource Links which are NOT BOLD lead OFF-SITE. We is not responsible for their content.
If a link fails or we should add a resource to this listing, please submit info via email to:
^ Editor♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@")

RELATED RESOURCES: Topics‚ Directories‚ Vendors‚ Products‚ etc. RC
## – TOPIC: (1st Level 'Numbered' Main Topic) T
##.## – Topic: (2nd Level 'Numbered' Subtopic) T
##.## –  ^  Title ('Unnumbered' Directory‚ Vendor‚ Product‚+. Usually Listed Alphabetically) +
##.## –  ^  Media Title — Creators (Authors‚ Editors‚ Illustrators‚+) – Source (Publishers‚+) +
##.##.00 – Topic: (3rd Level 'Unnumbered' Subtopic) T
00 – WEBSITE CONTENTS and WEBSITE INDEX. T
00.00 – HOME Page w/Featured Articles. T
00.02 – GLOSSARY OF NAUTICAL TERMS. T
00.01 – ABOUT EAB (EverythingAboutBoats.org). T
00.01.01 – Contact EverythingAboutBoats.org. T
00.01.02 – Privacy Policy. T
00.01.03 – Copyrights. T
00.01.04 – Comment Rules. T
00.01.05 – Submitting Articles. T
00.01.06 – Abbreviations‚ Acronyms & Symbols used on EAB website. T
00.01.07 – FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions about EAB & website). T
00.01.08 – Disclamer. T
00.02 – GLOSSARY OF NAUTICAL TERMS. T
00.03 – ASK AN EXPERT. T
00.04 – CLASSIFIED ADS. T
01 – ABOUT BOATS w/Museum Directory: Early History‚ Recent History‚ Modern Vessels‚+. T
02 – BOAT BUILDING‚ OUTFITTING‚ REFITTING & REPAIR: (Incl. DIY). T
02.01 – Boat Designing Schools: T
02.02 – Boat Designers: (Naval Architects‚ Boat Plans‚ Kits‚+). T
02.03 – Statutes & Standards: (Vessel & Equipment Requirements‚+) T
02.03.01 – Marine Laws & Regulations: (CAN‚ GBR‚ USA‚+). T
02.03.02 – Industry Standards: T
02.03.02 –  ^  International Maritime Organization (IMO). V
02.03.02 –  ^  International Standards Organization (ISO). V
02.03.02 –  ^  American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC). V
02.03.02 –  ^  National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). V
02.03.03 – Classification Societies: T
02.04 – Boat Building & Refitting Tools‚+: (Vendors‚ Specs‚ Manuals‚ Recalls‚+). T
02.05 – Boat Materials: (Qualities‚ Vendors‚ Specs‚ Manuals‚ Recalls‚+). T
02.05.01 – Wood: (Species‚ Rot; Carvel‚ Clinker/Lapstrake‚ Veneer/Plywood‚ Cold Molded‚+). T
02.05.02 – Metal: Iron‚ Steel‚ Aluminum‚ Copper‚+. (Strengths‚ Weakness‚ Corrosion‚+). T
02.05.03 – Ferrocement: (Strengths‚ Weakness‚ Corrosion‚+). T
02.05.04 – FRP & GRP Composites: Fiberglass‚ Carbon Fiber‚+. (Strengths‚ Weakness‚+). T
02.06 – Boat Equipment: (Vendors‚ Specs‚ Manuals‚ Reviews‚ Recalls‚+). T
02.06.01 – Steering & Thrusters: (Mechanical‚ Electric‚ Hydraulic‚+). T
02.06.02 – Stabilizers & Trim Plates: (Mechanical‚ Electric‚ Hydraulic‚+). T
02.06.03 – Dewatering Devices: (Bailers‚ Bilge Pumps‚+). T
02.06.04 – Galvanic Corrosion Protection: (Active‚ Anodes‚+). T
02.06.05 – Hull Penetrations & Openings: (Thru-Hulls‚ Scuttles‚ Skylights‚ Hatches‚+). T
02.06.06 – Deck Hardware & Equipment: (Cleats‚ Railings‚+). T
02.06.06.01 – Ground Tackle: (Anchors‚ Rodes‚ Chocks‚ Winches‚+). T
02.06.06.02 – Commercial Fishing Gear: (Pots‚ Nets‚ Lines‚ Winches‚ Reels‚ Rods‚+). T
02.06.07 – Rigging: (Rig Types‚ Standing Rigging‚ Running Rigging‚ Vendors‚ Riggers‚+). T
02.06.07.01 – Sails: (Sail Types‚ Aerodynamics‚ Vendors‚ Sailmakers‚+). T
02.06.08 – Propulsion Machinery: (Types‚ Configurations‚ Features‚ Control Systems‚+). T
02.06.08.01 – Engines: Systems & Brands A∼Z: (Manufacturers‚ Marinizers‚ Resellers‚+). T
02.06.08.01.01 – Engine Mechanical: (Pistons‚ Rods‚ Crankshafts‚ Cylinders‚ Heads‚ Valves‚+). T
02.06.08.01.02 – Engine Lubrication: (Splash‚ Forced‚ Oil‚ Filtration‚ Additives‚ Oil Analysis‚+). T
02.06.08.01.03 – Engine Aspiration & Fuel: (Petrol/Gasoline/Benzine‚ Diesel‚ CNG‚+). T
02.06.08.01.04 – Engine Electrical: (Cranking‚ Charging‚ Ignition‚ Instrumentation‚+). T
02.06.08.01.05 – Engine Cooling: (Air‚ Liquid (Raw Water‚ Fresh Water‚+). T
02.06.08.01.06 – Engine Exhaust: (Dry‚ Wet‚ w/Separator‚+). T
02.06.08.01.07 – Engine Mounting: (Hard‚ Soft‚+). T
02.06.08.02 – Engine-to-Marine Gear Interfaces: (SAE Specs‚ Damper Plates‚ Jackshafts‚+). T
02.06.08.03 – Marine Gears: (Reversing‚ Reduction; Mechanical‚ Hydraulic). T
02.06.08.04 – Shafting: (Propshafts‚ Couplings‚ Seals‚ Bearings‚ Struts‚ Keys‚ Nuts‚+). T
02.06.08.05 – Propellers: (Types‚ Materials‚+). T
02.06.09 – Electrical Systems: DC & AC (Direct Current‚ Alternating Current‚+). T
02.06.09.01 – Auxiliary Generators: (Diesel‚ Gasoline‚ Natural Gas‚+). T
02.06.09.02 – DC-to-AC Inverters: T
02.06.10 – Navigation & Communication Systems: T
02.06.11 – Safety Equipment: (Life Rafts‚ PFDs‚ Firefighting Eq.‚ Alarms‚ Medical Kits‚+). T
02.06.12 – Domestic Systems: T
02.06.12.01 – LPG & CNG Systems: T
02.06.12.02 – Cabin Heating & Cooling: T
02.06.12.03 – Galley Appliances: (Refrigeration‚ Galley Stoves‚+). T
02.06.12.04 – Water & Waste Systems: T
02.06.12.05 – Trash Disposal: T
02.06.12.06 – Furnishings: (Cabinetry‚ furniture‚ Coverings‚ Entertainment‚ Weather‚+). T
02.06.13 – Personal Equipment: T
02.06.13.00 – Diving: (Commercial & Sport). T
02.06.13.00 – Fishing: (Sport). T
02.06.13.00 – Racing: (Sail‚ Offshore Power‚ Powerboat‚ Hydroplane‚+). T
02.06.13.00 – Sailing: (Foul Weather Gear‚ Safety Harnesses‚+). T
02.06.13.00 – Watersports: (Surfing‚ Skiing‚ Boarding‚ Tubing‚+). T
02.06.14 – Boat Tenders: T
02.06.15 – Boat Trailers: T
02.07 – Marine Suppliers: (CAN‚ GBR‚ USA‚+). T
02.08 – Boat Builders A∼Z: (w/Vessel Types‚ Country & Years active). T
02.09 – Boat Refitters: (CAN‚ GBR‚ USA‚+). (Shipyards‚ Boatyards‚ Riggers‚ Repair Shops‚+). T
02.10 – Boat Building‚ Outfitting‚ Refitting & Repair Schools: (Incl. DIY). T
02.11 – DIY Boat Building‚ Outfitting‚ Refitting & Repair: (Maintenance‚ Troubleshooting‚+). T
03 – BOAT MARKETING: Boat Shows‚ Dealers‚ Brokers‚ Importing‚ Exporting‚ Auctions‚ Sales‚+. T
04 – BOAT INSPECTION: Types of Surveys‚ Marine Surveyors‚ Schools‚ DIY Inspections‚+. T
05 – BOAT TITLES & VESSEL REGISTRY: Boat Title & Registration‚ Vessel Registry‚ Title Co's‚+. T
06 – BOAT FINANCING: Conventional (BanksCredit Unions‚+)Unconventional (Creative)‚+. T
07 – BOAT INSURANCE: Policies‚ Claim Processing (FilingRepairClaimSubrogationCases)‚+. T
08 – BOAT TRANSPORT: By Sea (Piggyback‚ Delivery Skippers & Crews‚ & Towing)‚ Over-Land‚+. T
09 – BOAT LAUNCHING & HAULING: Drydocks‚ Ways‚ Lifts‚ Cranes & Hoists‚ Launch Ramps‚+. T
10 – BOAT MOORAGE & STORAGE: Builders‚ Anchorages‚ Marinas‚ Yards‚ Racks‚ Stacks‚+. T
11 – BOATING ORGANIZATIONS: Yacht Clubs‚ Paddling Clubs‚ Owners‚+. Education‚ Gov-Aux‚+. T
12 – BOATING & TRAVEL: Events‚ Destinations‚ Boat Rentals‚ Charters‚ Cruises‚ Voyages‚+. T
13 – BOATING & MARITIME EDUCATION: Recreational Seamanship‚ Ship's Master & Crew‚+. T
14 – MARINE LAWS & REGULATIONS: International & National LawsLawyers‚ Investigators‚+. T
15 – DO-IT-YOURSELF (DIY): T
15.01 – DIY Boat Building‚ Outfitting‚ Refitting & Repair (Incl. Maintenance & Fault Finding). T
15.02 – DIY Boat Sales (Buyers & Sellers). T
15.03 – DIY Boat Inspections (Pre-Survey‚ Pre-Purchase‚ Pre-Sale‚ Pre-Voyage‚ Sea Trials‚+). T
15.04 – DIY Schools & Classes (Boat Building‚ Refitting‚ Inspection‚ Troubleshooting‚ Repair‚+). T
15.04 –  ^  Anchors Aweigh Academy. V
16 – MEDIA w/Creator Directory: (Authors‚ Editors‚ Publishers‚+) + Academy eLibrary. T
16.01 – Documentation: (Catalogs‚ Ads‚ SpecSheets‚ Manuals‚ TechVids‚ Bulletins‚ Recalls‚+). T
16.02 – Books: (Bound‚ eBooks‚+). T
16.02 –  ^  10 Wooden Boats You Can Build For Sail‚ Motor‚ Paddle‚ and OarPeter H. Spectre B
16.02 –  ^  12 Volt Bible for BoatsMiner Brotherton B
16.02 –  ^  12 Volt Doctor's Practical HandbookEdgar J. Beyn B
16.02 –  ^  30-odd BoatsPhilip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  53 Boats You Can Build with CommentaryRichard Henderson B
16.02 –  ^  85 Fishing Boat DesignsNational Fisherman B
16.02 –  ^  100 Fast & Easy Boat ImprovementsDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  100 Small Boat RigsPhilip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  A Field Guide to SailboatsRichard M. Sherwood B
16.02 –  ^  A Sailor's Guide to SailsSven Donaldson B
16.02 –  ^  Advanced Marine Electrics and Electronics TroubleshootingEd Sherman B
16.02 –  ^  Aero-Hydrodynamics and the Performance of Sailing YachtsFabio Fossati B
16.02 –  ^  Aero-Hydrodynamics of SailingCzeslaw A. Marchaj B
16.02 –  ^  Aluminum BoatbuildingErnest H. Sims B
16.02 –  ^  Aluminum Boatbuilding Guide — Glen L. Witt B
16.02 –  ^  Amazing BoatsMargarette Lincoln B
16.02 –  ^  American Merchant Seaman's Manual : For SeamenSeamen? B
16.02 –  ^  Anchoring : All Techniques for All BottomsDon Bamford B
16.02 –  ^  Anchors : Selection and UseRobert Smith B
16.02 –  ^  Ashley Book of KnotsClifford W. Ashley B
16.02 –  ^  Automotive Upholstery HandbookDon Taylor B
16.02 –  ^  Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North AmericaTappan Adney B
16.02 –  ^  Basic Navel ArchitectureKenneth C. Barnaby B
16.02 –  ^  Basic Ship TheoryK.J. Rawson & E.C. Tupper B
16.02 –  ^  Beautiful Outboards — Peter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  Big Book of Boat CanvasKaren S. Lipe B
16.02 –  ^  Big Book of Wooden Boat Restoration — Thomas Larsson B
16.02 –  ^  BoatEric Kentley B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Building Techniques IllustratedRichard Birmingham B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Canvas from Cover to CoverBob Lipe B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Cosmetics Made SimpleSherri Board B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Data BookIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Engines : A Manual for Work and Pleasure BoatsP. J. Bowyer B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Interior ConstructionNaujok Michael B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Maintenance : The Essential Guide — William Burr Jr B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook — Dave Gerr B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Owner's ManualIntertec B
16.02 –  ^  Boat Repair Made Easy - EnginesKaufman B
16.02 –  ^  Boat-Building and BoatingDaniel Carter Beard B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilder’s HandbookUSCG B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilder's NotebookGlen L. Witt B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding : Complete Handbook of Wooden Boat ConstructionHoward Chapelle B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding and Repairing With FiberglassMelvin D. C. Willis B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding Manual — Robert M. Steward B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding MethodsPeter Cook B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding on a Glass Fibre HullDave Gannaway B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding One-Off In FiberglassAllan H. Vaitses B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding with AluminumThomas Colvin B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding with AluminumStephen F. Pollard B
16.02 –  ^  ^  Boatbuilding with Aluminum : A Complete Guide … — Stephen Pollard B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding with PlywoodGlen L. Witt & Ken Hankinson B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding With SteelGilbert C. Klingel B
16.02 –  ^  Boatbuilding with Steel & Boatbuilding with AluminumKlingel & Colvin B
16.02 –  ^  Boater's Pocket ReferenceThomas McEwan B
16.02 –  ^  Boating Magazine's Powerboater's Guide to Electrical SystemsEdwin R. Sherman B
16.02 –  ^  Boating Magazine's Quick & Easy Boat MaintenanceSandy Lindsey B
16.02 –  ^  Boatkeeper : … Maintenance‚ Repair‚ ImprovementGladstone & Bottomley (Eds) B
16.02 –  ^  Boatman's Handbook : The New Look-it-up BookTom Bottomley B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Fitting Out ManualJeff Toghill B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Guide to Marine Electronics — Gordon West & Freeman Pittman B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical HandbookCharlie Wing B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Illustrated Handbook of WiringCharlie Wing B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Mechanical & Electrical ManualNigel Calder B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Practical & Technical Cruising ManualNigel Calder B
16.02 –  ^  Boatowner's Weekend WoodworkingGarth Graves B
16.02 –  ^  Boats : A Manual for their DocumentationPaul Lipke (Mgr‚Ed)‚+ B
16.02 –  ^  Boats with an Open Mind : Seventy-Five Unconventional Designs …Philip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  Boats‚ Ships‚ Submarines‚ and Other Floating MachinesIan Graham B
16.02 –  ^  Boatwatch : Armchair Shopping 340 Sailboats 29' - 35'Max Wade Averitt B
16.02 –  ^  Boatwatch : Master Guide to Sailboats of the WorldMax Wade Averitt B
16.02 –  ^  Boatwatch : On-The-Water Guide to Pleasure Boat IdentificationMax Wade Averitt B
16.02 –  ^  Boatwight's CompanionTaube B
16.02 –  ^  Boatworks : Sailboat Maintenance‚ Repair‚ and Improvement … — Sail Magazine (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Bolger Boats : Combining Small Boats and The folding Schooner‚ …Philip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  Box Boats : How Container Ships Changed the WorldBrian J. Cudahy B
16.02 –  ^  Brightwork : The Art of Finishing WoodRebecca J. Wittman B
16.02 –  ^  Build It Yourself the Glen L WayGlen L. Witt B
16.02 –  ^  Build Your Own BoatIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  Building a Fiberglass BoatArthur Edmunds B
16.02 –  ^  Building A Foam Core BoatRon Palmer B
16.02 –  ^  Building Catherine : A 14 Foot Pulling Boat in the Whitehall TraditionRichard Kolin B
16.02 –  ^  Building Small BoatsGreg Rössel B
16.02 –  ^  Building Strip-Planked BoatsNick Schade B
16.02 –  ^  Building your First Wooden BoatGeorge W. Barnes B
16.02 –  ^  Canvas and Rope CraftFrank Rosenow B
16.02 –  ^  Canvaswork and Sail RepairDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Care of Alloy Spars and RiggingPotter B
16.02 –  ^  Chapman KnotsBrion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  Chapman Knots for BoatersBrion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  Cold-Moulded & Strip-Planked Wood BoatbuildingIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  Comfort in the Cruising YachtIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  Commissioning & DecommissioningPractical Sailor Library B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Book of Anchoring and MooringEarl R. Hinz B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Book of Boat ElectronicsErnest A. Zadig B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Book of Yacht CareMichael Verney B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Canvas Worker's GuideGrant B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Guide to Outboard Motor Service & RepairPaul Dempsey B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Illustrated Guide to Everything SoldSteve Ettlinger B
16.02 –  ^  Complete Powerboating ManualTim Bartlett & Simon Collis B
16.02 –  ^  Concrete BoatbuildingGainor W. Jackson B
16.02 –  ^  Conversion and Seasoning of WoodWilliam H. Brown B
16.02 –  ^  Cost Conscious CruiserLin & Larry Pardey B
16.02 –  ^  Covering Wooden Boats with FiberglassAllan H. Vaitses B
16.02 –  ^  Cruising Boats : Sail & PowerJay R. Benford & Associates‚ Inc B
16.02 –  ^  Cruising Designs — Jay R. Benford (Design Group) B
16.02 –  ^  Cruising World's Workbench : 200 Ideas … to Improve Your Life AfloatBingham (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Customizing your BoatIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  DDDB : Drag Device Data Base — Victor Shane B
16.02 –  ^  Design of Marine Structures in Composite MaterialsC. S. Smith B
16.02 –  ^  Designer & Client : Eight Boat Design Commissions … Kayak to CruiserAntonio Dias B
16.02 –  ^  Details of Classic Boat ConstructionLarry Pardey B
16.02 –  ^  Devlin's Boat Building : The Stitch-And-Glue WaySamual Devlin B
16.02 –  ^  Diesel Engine MechanicsWayne A. Kelm B
16.02 –  ^  Diesel EnginesJ. W. Anderson B
16.02 –  ^  Diesel TroubleshootierDon Seddon B
16.02 –  ^  Diesels Afloat : The Must-Have Guide for Diesel Boat EnginesPat Manley B
16.02 –  ^  Different BoatsPhilip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  Different Waterfronts : Stories from the Wooden Boat RevivalPeter H. Spectre B
16.02 –  ^  Dinghies and DaysailersButch & Rita Wilcox B
16.02 –  ^  Directory of Wooden Boat Builders+Bray& (^Woodenboat Books) B
16.02 –  ^  Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance ManualDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Driftboats : A Complete GuideDan Alsup B
16.02 –  ^  Ed Monk and the Tradition of Classic Boats — Bet Oliver B
16.02 –  ^  Effect of Sewage Discharges From Pleasure CraftRobert W. Seabloom B
16.02 –  ^  Electrical Handbook for RVs‚ Campers‚ Vans‚ Boats & TrailersHerb Gill B
16.02 –  ^  Electrics AfloatAlir Garrod B
16.02 –  ^  Engines Afloat : From Early Days to D-Day Vol 2Stan Grayson B
16.02 –  ^  Epoxy System Technical ManualGlen-L B
16.02 –  ^  Essential Boat MaintenancePat Manley & Rupert Holmes B
16.02 –  ^  Evolution of Modern Sailboat DesignGougeon+ B
16.02 –  ^  Family & Express CruisersEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  Fast Boats & Rough SeasDag Pike B
16.02 –  ^  Fast Ferries for the State of WashingtonHoverprojects Limited B
16.02 –  ^  Ferro-cement : Design‚ Techniques‚ and ApplicationBruce Bingham B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass & Other Composite Materials : A Guide … Materials … Boats — Forbes Aird B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boat Design and ConstructionRobert J. Scott B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boat Repair ManualAllan H. Vaitses B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boat Survey ManualArthur Edmunds B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boatbuilding for AmateursKen Hankinson B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boatbuilding ManualGlen L. Witt B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass BoatsHugh Du Plessis B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boats : Construction‚ Repair‚ and MaintenanceJohn Roberts B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Boats : Construction and MaintenanceBoughton Cobb B
16.02 –  ^  Fiberglass Repairs : Guide to Fiberglass/polyester Repairs on Boats‚ — Paul J. Petrick B
16.02 –  ^  Fine Boat Finishes for Wood and Fiberglass BoatsPaul & Marya Butler B
16.02 –  ^  Fine Yacht Finishes for Wood and Fiberglass BoatsPaul & Marya Butler B
16.02 –  ^  Fitting Out : Preparing for SeaJ D Sleightholme B
16.02 –  ^  Fitting Out a Fibreglass HullMike Collins B
16.02 –  ^  Floating Homes : A Houseboat HandbookTed Laturnus B
16.02 –  ^  Fourth Book of Good BoatsRoger C. Taylor B
16.02 –  ^  Frame‚ Stem & Keel RepairPeter H. Spectre (ED) B
16.02 –  ^  Free energy afloatNan Jeffrey B
16.02 –  ^  From Boats to Board Feet : The Wilson Family of the Pacific CoastEmily M. Wilson B
16.02 –  ^  FUNdaMENTALS of DesignAlexander H Slocum B
16.02 –  ^  Gaff RigJohn Leather B
16.02 –  ^  GammelmotorenValdemar Steiro B
16.02 –  ^  Gar Wood Boats : Classics of a Golden EraAnthony S. Mollica Jr B
16.02 –  ^  Get Rid of Boat Odors! : … Marine Sanitation Systems …Peggie Hall B
16.02 –  ^  Getting Started in PowerboatingCaptain Bob Armstrong B
16.02 –  ^  Glen L Book of Boat DesignsGlen L Marine Designs B
16.02 –  ^  Good Clean Fun : Misadventures in Sawdust at Offerman WoodshopNick Offerman B
16.02 –  ^  Gougeon Brothers on Boat ConstructionMeade Gougeon B
16.02 –  ^  GPS AfloatTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  Guidance on Inspection‚ Repair‚ and Maintenance of Wooden Hulls NVIC 7-95 USCG B
16.02 –  ^  Guide to Marine Electronics — ? B
16.02 –  ^  Handbook For Marine Radio CommunicationG.D. Lees & W.G. Williamson B
16.02 –  ^  Handling Troubles Afloat : What to Do When It All Goes WrongJohn Mellor B
16.02 –  ^  Handyman Afloat & AshoreKen Bramham B
16.02 –  ^  Heart of GlassDaniel Spurr B
16.02 –  ^  Home Generator : Selection‚ Installation‚ and RepairPaul Dempsey B
16.02 –  ^  How Boat Things Work : An Illustrated GuideCharlie Wing B
16.02 –  ^  How to Build A Ferro-Cement BoatJohn Samson B
16.02 –  ^  How To Build a Wooden BoatDavid C. McIntosh B
16.02 –  ^  How to Build An Indian CanoeGeorge S. Fichter B
16.02 –  ^  How to Build Boat TrailersGlen L. Witt B
16.02 –  ^  How to Build Wooden Boats : With 16 Small-boat DesignsEdwin Monk B
16.02 –  ^  How to Design A BoatJohn Teale B
16.02 –  ^  How to Fiberglass Boats — Ken Hankinson B
16.02 –  ^  How To Paint Your BoatNigel Clegg B
16.02 –  ^  How To Repair Diesel EnginesPaul Dempsey B
16.02 –  ^  How to Restore your Wooden RunaboutDon Danenberg B
16.02 –  ^  Hull Care and RepairDavid MacLean B
16.02 –  ^  Illustrated Sail & Rig TuningIvar Dedekam B
16.02 –  ^  Inboard Motor InstallationsGlen L. Witt & Ken Hankinson B
16.02 –  ^  InflatablesDag Pike B
16.02 –  ^  Innovative Yacht : Ideas for Modern CruisingAndrew Simpson B
16.02 –  ^  Inspecting the Aging SailboatDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Instant Boatbuilding With Dynamite PaysonHarold H. Payson B
16.02 –  ^  Internal Combustion Engines — USCG B
16.02 –  ^  Inboard Engine‚ Transmission and Drive Service : ManualIntertec B
16.02 –  ^  Jane's Surface Skimmer SystemsRoy McLeavy B
16.02 –  ^  Kawasaki Jet Ski Shop Manual‚ 1976-1988Ron Wright B
16.02 –  ^  Kayaks You Can Build : An Illustrated Guide to Plywood ConstructionTed Moores B
16.02 –  ^  Knee-Deep in Shavings : Memories of Early Yachting and …Norman C. Blanchard B
16.02 –  ^  Knots (Chapman’s Nautical Guides)Brion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  Know Your Boat's Diesel EngineAndrew Simpson B
16.02 –  ^  Lightning and BoatsMichael v Huck Jr B
16.02 –  ^  Lofting — Allan Vaitses B
16.02 –  ^  London Goes to Sea : Restoring and Sailing an Old Boat …Peter Baumgartner B
16.02 –  ^  Look Inside : Cross-Sections · SHIPS — Moira Butterfield B
16.02 –  ^  Looking at SailsDick Kenny B
16.02 –  ^  MaintenanceTime-Life B
16.02 –  ^  Managing 12 Volts : How to Upgrade‚ Operate‚ and TroubleshootHarold Barre B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Diesel Basics — Dennison Berwick B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Diesel Engines : Maintenance‚ Troubleshooting‚ and RepairNigel Calder B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Diesel Engines : Maintenance & Repair ManualJean-Luc Pallas B
16.02 –  ^  Marine DieselsM. David Burghardt & George D. Kingsley B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Electrical Care & RepairDavid MacLean B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Electrical Electronics BibleJohn C. Payne B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Electrical SystemsDIY Boat Owner Magazine B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Engine Room Blue BookWilliam D. Eglinton B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Engines & PropulsionRanger Hope B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Fire Prevention‚ Firefighting and Fire SafetyUS DoC MA B
16.02 –  ^  Marine InvestigationsDavid Pascoe B
16.02 –  ^  Marine Metals ManualRoger Pretzer B
16.02 –  ^  Mariner Stand-Up Paddleboard Instructions - Designed and BuiltJack Young B
16.02 –  ^  Mauch's Sailboat GuideJan Mauch B
16.02 –  ^  Metal Corrosion In BoatsNigel Warren B
16.02 –  ^  Metal Boats : A Practical Guide for Building or Buying …Ken Scott B
16.02 –  ^  Metals Handbook — ASM B
16.02 –  ^  Mid Size Power BoatsDavid Pascoe B
16.02 –  ^  Modeller's Guide to Hull ConstructionA. Richard Mansir B
16.02 –  ^  Modern Boat BuildingEdwin Monk B
16.02 –  ^  Modern Boat MaintenanceBo Streiffert (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Motor Boat Building (1946)Charles F. Chapman (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Motor Boat EnginesAlan C. Wilson B
16.02 –  ^  Motor Yachts & TrawlersEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  Nautical Knots IllustratedPaul Snyder B
16.02 –  ^  NVIC 7-95 Guidance on Inspection‚ Repair‚ and Maintenance of Wooden HullsUSCG B
16.02 –  ^  NYNEX Boaters DirectoryNYNEX B
16.02 –  ^  Oars‚ Sails and SteamEdwin Tunis B
16.02 –  ^  Osmosis & Glassfibre Yacht ConstructionTony Staton-Bevan B
16.02 –  ^  Osmosis and the Care & Repair of Glassfibre YachtsTony Staton-Bevan B
16.02 –  ^  Outboard Boats You Can BuildWilliam Atkin B
16.02 –  ^  Outboard Motors Maintenance and Repair ManualJean-Luc Pallas B
16.02 –  ^  Own a Steel BoatMike Pratt B
16.02 –  ^  Passagemaking Handbook : Guide for Delivery Skippers & Boat OwnersJohn Rains B
16.02 –  ^  Pete Culler on Wooden BoatsJohn Burke (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Planking & Fastening (The Wooden Boat Series)Peter H. Spector (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Powerboat Care and RepairAllen D. Berrien B
16.02 –  ^  Powerboat GuideEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  PowerBoat Guide to Express & Sedan CruisersEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  PowerBoat Guide to Motor Yachts & Trawlers — Ed McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  PowerBoat Guide to Sportfishing BoatsEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems (Boating Magazine)Edwin R. Sherman B
16.02 –  ^  Powerboating : Your First Book for Your First BoatKen Kreisler B
16.02 –  ^  Practical Ferro-Cement BoatbuildingJay R. Benford & Herman Husen B
16.02 –  ^  Practical Small Boat DesignsJohn Atkin B
16.02 –  ^  Practical Small Powerboat MaintenanceAllen D. Berrien B
16.02 –  ^  Preliminary Design of Boats & ShipsCyrus Hamlin B
16.02 –  ^  Primitive BenchmarkJerry N. Selness B
16.02 –  ^  Propeller HandbookDave Gerr B
16.02 –  ^  PulleysChris Oxlade B
16.02 –  ^  Quick & Easy Boat Maintenance : 1‚001 Time-Saving TipsSandy Lindsey B
16.02 –  ^  Radar AfloatTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  Radar for Small CraftTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  Reeds Diesel Engine Troubleshooting HandbookBarry Pickthall B
16.02 –  ^  Reeds Knot HandbookJim Whippy B
16.02 –  ^  Reeds Outboard Motor Troubleshooting HandbookBarry Pickthall B
16.02 –  ^  Refrigeration For PleasureboatsNigel Calder B
16.02 –  ^  Replacing Your Boat's Engine (Adlard Coles Manuals)Mike Westin B
16.02 –  ^  Restore your Wooden BoatStan Grayson (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Rigging : Rig your boat right for racing or cruisingDanilo Fabroni B
16.02 –  ^  Rigging HandbookBrion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  Rigging Illustrated Manuale completo (Italian)Brion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  Run Your Diesel Vehicle on BiofuelsJon Starbuck & Gavin D. j. Harper B
16.02 –  ^  Running FixTony Gibbs BF
16.02 –  ^  Rushton's Rowboats and CanoesWilliam Crowley B
16.02 –  ^  RYA Book of Diesel EnginesTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  RYA Book of KnotsPeter Owen B
16.02 –  ^  RYA Book of Outboard MotorsTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  RYA Diesel Engine HandbookAndrew Simpson B
16.02 –  ^  RYA VHF Handbook : The RYA'S Complete Guide to SRCTim Bartlett & Alison Noyce B
16.02 –  ^  Sail PerformanceCzeslaw A. Marchaj B
16.02 –  ^  Sail Power : The Complete Guide to Sails and Sail HandlingWallace Ross B
16.02 –  ^  Sailboat Buyer's Guide : Conducting Your Own SurveyKarel Doruyter B
16.02 –  ^  Sailboat Electrics SimplifiedDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Sailboat Hull and Deck RepairDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Sailboat RefinishingDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Sailing Ship Rigs & RiggingHarold A. Underhill B
16.02 –  ^  Sailing Ships‚ in Words and Pictures‚ From Papyrus Boats to …Björn Landström B
16.02 –  ^  Sailor's Assistant : Reference Data for Maintenance‚ Repair & CruisingJohn Vigor B
16.02 –  ^  Sailors' Secrets : Advice From The MastersMichael Badham & Robby Robinson B
16.02 –  ^  Sail's Things That Work : More then 100 Sea-Tested Improvements for … BoatSail B
16.02 –  ^  SeaworthinessCzeslaw A. Marchaj B
16.02 –  ^  Seaworthy: Essential Lessons from BoatUS — Robert A. Adriance – BoatU.S. B
16.02 –  ^  Self-Steering Without a WindvaneLee Woas B
16.02 –  ^  Seloc Bombardier Sea-doo Personal Watercraft … ManualClarence W. Coles. (T) B
16.02 –  ^  Seloc Kawasaki Personal Watercraft‚ 1992-97 Repair ManualJoan Coles B
16.02 –  ^  Seloc Yamaha Personal Watercraft … ManualClarence W. Coles B
16.02 –  ^  Ship Construction Sketches & NotesKemp & Young B
16.02 –  ^  ShipsRichard Humble B
16.02 –  ^  Ships & Boats : Sail‚ Navigation‚ Radar‚ Anchor‚ Keel …Chris Oxlade B
16.02 –  ^  Shipshape - The Art of Sailboat MaintenanceFerenc Mat B
16.02 –  ^  Simple Boat MaintenancePat Manley B
16.02 –  ^  Sloop : Restoring My Family's Wooden SailboatDaniel Robb B
16.02 –  ^  Small Boat Engines - Inboard & OutboardConrad Miller B
16.02 –  ^  Small Boat Guide to Electronics AfloatTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  Small BoatsPhilip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  Small Boats for Outboard EnginesWilliam Atkin B
16.02 –  ^  Small Boats SailsJeremy Howard-Williams B
16.02 –  ^  Small Craft Advisory : A Book About the Building of A BoatLouis D. Rubin B
16.02 –  ^  Small Craft RadarJohn French B
16.02 –  ^  Small Engines and Outdoor Power Equipment — Peter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  Small Steel CraftIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  Sorensen's Guide to Powerboats — Eric W. Sorensen B
16.02 –  ^  Spurr's Guide to Upgrading your Cruising SailboatDaniel Spurr B
16.02 –  ^  Stability and Trim for the Ship's OfficerWilliam E. George (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Stapleton's Powerboat Bible : How to Buy‚ Equip‚ and Organize …Sid Stapleton B
16.02 –  ^  Steel Away : Guidebook to … Steel SailboatsLeCain W. Smith & Sheila Moir B
16.02 –  ^  Steel Boatbuilding GuideGlen-L B
16.02 –  ^  Stitch & Glue ManualGlen-L B
16.02 –  ^  Stitch-and-Glue Boatbuilding : How to Build Kayaks and … BoatsChris Kulczycki B
16.02 –  ^  Strength of Aluminum vs Strength of SteelKasten B
16.02 –  ^  Strip-built Sea Kayak : Three Rugged‚ Beautiful Boats You Can BuildNick Schade B
16.02 –  ^  Surveying and Restoring Classic BoatsJ C Winters B
16.02 –  ^  Surveying Fiberglass Power BoatsDavid Pascoe B
16.02 –  ^  Surveying Small CraftIan Nicolson B
16.02 –  ^  Tail Fins and Two-Tones: The Guide to America's Classic Fiberglass and Aluminum Runabouts — Peter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  Take the Mystery Out of Boat MaintenanceLawrence A. Diamond B
16.02 –  ^  The Adlard Coles Book of Diesel EnginesTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  The Adlard Coles Book of Outboard MotorsTim Bartlett B
16.02 –  ^  The Art and Science of SailsTom Whidden‚ & Michael Levit B
16.02 –  ^  The Art of RiggingGeorge Biddlecombe B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Buyer's Guide to Express and Sedan CruisersEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Buyer's Guide to Motor Yachts and TrawlersEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Buyer’s Guide to Sportfishing BoatsEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Buyer's Guide to Trailerable Cruisers and RunaboutsEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Buyer's Guide to Trailerable Fishing BoatsEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Improvement BibleTarantoga B
16.02 –  ^  The Boat Repair ManualGeorge Buchanan B
16.02 –  ^  The Boatbuilder's Apprentice : Ins and outs of … wooden boatsGreg Rössel B
16.02 –  ^  The Boatman's Guide to Modern Marine MaterialsErnest A. Zadig B
16.02 –  ^  The Boatowner's Guide to Corrosion — Everett Collier B
16.02 –  ^  The Book of Wooden Boats - Volume IIBenjamin Mendlowitz B
16.02 –  ^  The Building of BoatsDouglas Hextall Chedzey Phillips-Birt B
16.02 –  ^  The Care and Repair of SailsJeremy Howard-Williams B
16.02 –  ^  The Care and Repair of Small Marine DieselsChris Thompson B
16.02 –  ^  The Classic Outboard Motor HandbookPeter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  The Complete Anchoring HandbookAlain Poiraud+ B
16.02 –  ^  The Complete Book of Pleasure Boat EnginesErnest A. Zadig B
16.02 –  ^  The Complete Guide to Metal BoatsBruce Roberts-Goodson B
16.02 –  ^  The Complete Rigger’s ApprenticeBrion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  The Complete Sailing ManualSteve Sleight B
16.02 –  ^  The Diesel CompanionPat Manley B
16.02 –  ^  The Essential Boat Maintenance ManualJeff E. Toghill B
16.02 –  ^  The Fiberglass Boat HandbookJack Wiley B
16.02 –  ^  The Folding Schooner : And Other Adventures in Boat DesignPhilip C. Bolger B
16.02 –  ^  The Golden Age of the Racing Outboard — Peter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  The Great Canoes : Reviving A Northwest Coast TraditionDavid Neel B
16.02 –  ^  The Guide to Wooden BoatsBenjamin Mendlowitz B
16.02 –  ^  The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Ships‚ Boats‚ …Graham Blackburn B
16.02 –  ^  The Jim Richardson Boat BookJames B. Richardson B
16.02 –  ^  The Laminated Wood BoatbuildingHub Miller B
16.02 –  ^  The Legend of Chris-CraftJeffrey L. Rodengen B
16.02 –  ^  The Motorboat Electrical and Electronics ManualJohn C. Payne B
16.02 –  ^  The Napier WayBryan Boyle BB
16.02 –  ^  The New Cold-Molded Boatbuilding : From Lofting to LaunchingReuel B. Parker B
16.02 –  ^  The Old Outboard BookPeter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  The Real RunaboutsRobert Speltz B
16.02 –  ^  The Repair of Wooden BoatsJohn Lewis B
16.02 –  ^  The RigChristopher Dawson B
16.02 –  ^  The Rigger’s ApprenticeBrion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  The Rigger’s LockerBrion Toss B
16.02 –  ^  The Rigging of Ships : in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast — R. C. Anderson B
16.02 –  ^  The Sailmaker's Apprentice : A Guide for the Self-Reliant Sailor — Emiliano Marino B
16.02 –  ^  The ShipbuildersLeonard Everett Fisher B
16.02 –  ^  The Small-Engine HandbookPeter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  The Tactics of Small Boat RacingStuart H. Walker B
16.02 –  ^  The Total Boating Manual : 311 Powerboat EssentialsKevin Falvey B
16.02 –  ^  The Usborn Book of Cutaway BoatsChristopher Maynard B
16.02 –  ^  The Vintage Culture of Outboard Racing — Peter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  The Willits Brothers and Their CanoesPatrick F. Chapman B
16.02 –  ^  The World's Best Sailboats : A SurveyFerenc Maté B
16.02 –  ^  The Young Sea Officer's Sheet AnchorDarcy Lever B
16.02 –  ^  Theory and Practice of Propellers For Auxiliary SailboatsJohn R. Stanton B
16.02 –  ^  Things I Wish I'd Known Before I Started SailingJohn Vigor B
16.02 –  ^  Thirty Wooden Boats : A Second Catalog of Building PlansWooden Boat Magazine B
16.02 –  ^  This Old BoatDon Casey B
16.02 –  ^  Trailerable Fishing BoatsEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  TrailerBoat GuideEd McKnew B
16.02 –  ^  Treatise on Masting Ships & Mast MakingJohn Fincham B
16.02 –  ^  Troubleshooting and Repairing Diesel EnginesPaul Dempsey B
16.02 –  ^  Troubleshooting Marine DieselsPeter Compton B
16.02 –  ^  Tuning Yachts & Small KeelboatsLawrie Smith B
16.02 –  ^  Twenty Affordable Sailboats To Take You AnywhereGregg Nestor B
16.02 –  ^  Ultimate Boat Maintenance ProjectsScott Smith B
16.02 –  ^  Under Sail : Equipment for the Serious SailorTony Meisel (Ed) B
16.02 –  ^  Under Sail : Aboard the World's Finest BoatsDavid Glenn B
16.02 –  ^  Understanding Boat Corrosion‚ Lightning Protection…John C. Payne B
16.02 –  ^  Understanding Boat DesignEdward S. Brewer B
16.02 –  ^  Understanding Boat Diesel EnginesJohn C. Payne B
16.02 –  ^  Understanding Rigs and RiggingRichard Henderson B
16.02 –  ^  Upgrading and Refurbishing the Older Fiberglass SailboatW. D. Booth B
16.02 –  ^  Vintage Aluminum & Fiberglass Runabout Book — Peter Hunn B
16.02 –  ^  Walking on Water: … Guide to Building … PaddleboardMark Schultz B
16.02 –  ^  Watch It Made in the USA : Visitor's Guide to the Best Factory Tours — Karen Axelrod B
16.02 –  ^  What Shape Is She In?. A Guide to the Surveying of BoatsAllan H. Vaitses B
16.02 –  ^  Wooden Boat DesignsChristian Nielsen B
16.02 –  ^  Wooden Boat Renovation : New Life … Using Modern MethodsJim Trefethen B
16.02 –  ^  Wooden Boat Repair ManualJohn Scarlett B
16.02 –  ^  Wooden Boats : In Pursuit of the Perfect Craft …Michael Ruhlman B
16.02 –  ^  Yacht Designing and PlanningHoward I. Chapelle B
16.02 –  ^  Your Boat's Electrical SystemConrad Miller & E. S. Maloney B
16.03 – Magazines: (Incl. Articles‚ Back Issues‚+). T
16.03 –  ^  The ANCHOR — Anchors Aweigh Academy M
16.03 –  ^  The Antique and Classic Boat Society ACBS W
16.03 –  ^  ^  Diva- A “Preserved-Original” ACBS WA
16.03 –  ^  ^  Tips on Varnishing Wooden Boats ACBS WA
16.03 –  ^  DIY Boat Owner - The Marine Maintenance MagazineBoatUS Mad Mariner (OoB) M
16.04 – Videos: (How-to-Tutorials‚ Documentaries‚ Travelogues‚+). T
16.05 – Websites: (Incl. Articles‚ Forum Posts‚ Tech Tips‚ Tech Notes‚ Social Media‚+). T
16.05 –  ^  Anchors Aweigh Academy V
16.05 –  ^  BoatUS V
16.05 –  ^  ^  Aluminum CareDon Casey WA
16.05 –  ^  ^  Carbon Monoxide = Silent KillerDon Casey WA
16.05 –  ^  ^  Chemical StrippersDon Casey WA
16.05 –  ^  ^  Choosing the Right Sealant for the JobDon Casey WA
16.05 –  ^  ^  Sealant ShorthandDon Casey WA
16.05 –  ^  ^  What Sealant Do You Need?Don Casey WA
16.05 –  ^  International Institute of Marine Surveying (IIMS) V
16.05 –  ^  ^  Ship and Boat Building TermsIIMS WA
00.00 –  ^  ΞTitleΞ – + (ΞNotesΞ) — ΞCreatorΞ – ΞSourceΞ ?

Related Articles

Bedding Deck Hardware By Don Casey from BoatUS
Docklines By Don Casey from BoatUS
Ground Tackle: Selecting Anchors and Rodes By Don Casey from BoatUS
Installing a Deckwash Pump By Don Casey from BoatUS
The Right Pick: Choosing an Anchor by Terry Johnson, University of Alaska Sea Grant
What Sealant Do You Need? By Don Casey from BoatUS
+


Related Books

Don Casey’s Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual by Don Casey
Inspecting the Aging Sailboat by Don Casey
This Old Boat by Don Casey
+

If any Related Resources should be added to this list, please submit info/links via email To:
Editor♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@")


NOT AN ACADEMY MEMBER?
CLICK HERE to discover how you can become a Member and gain FULL access to
thousands of expanded pages and dozens of excellent programs including our eLibrary!

CLICK HERE to view ALL the books, magazines, videos, etc. in our Academy eLibrary.
Media are also listed by category on the Topic Pages found on the Right Sidebar
CLICK HERE to donate any books, magazines, manuals, or videos, etc. to our Library.


EVERYTHING ON THIS PAGE OK?
If there is anything on this webpage that needs fixing, please let us know via email To:

Editor♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@")

THIS ARTICLE IS STILL EVOLVING!
The page may contain rough drafts that include raw source materials.


Visit our FEATURED ARTICLES Home Page
to see examples of our website's comprehensive contents!

Thanks to our amazing contributors for the steady flow of articles, and to our dedicated all-volunteer staff who sort, polish and format them, everyday we get a little bit closer to our goal of
Everything About Boats. If you would like to submit an article,
See Submitting Articles.


— TOP 20 MOST POPULAR ARTICLES —

Detroit Diesel 8.2 Liter “Fuel Pincher” V8 Engine
Cummins V-555 & VT-555 “Triple-Nickel” V8 Diesel Engine
Lehman 120 (6D380) Diesel Engine (Ford 2704C & 2715E)
Ford Industrial Power Products Diesel Engines
How to Identify Ford Diesel Engines
Ford 2715E Diesel Engine
Lehman Mfg. Co.
Perkins Engines
Universal Atomic 4
Sears Boat Motors: Motorgo, Waterwitch, Elgin, etc.
Chrysler & Force Outboards
Eska Outboard Motors
Allison Transmission
ZF Friedrichshafen AG
Marine Surveyors by Country
American Marine Ltd (Grand Banks)
Boat Inspection (Types of Marine Surveys)
Boat Builders: (A∼Z) (w/Vessel Types, Locale & Years Active)
USCG NVIC 07-95 Guidance on Inspection, Repair and Maintenance of Wooden Hulls
American Boat and Yacht Counsel (ABYC)


Layout of the EverythingAboutBoats.org Website's Pages

— Types of Webpages —
This website consists almost entirely of 3 types of webpages as follows:

  1. TOPIC PAGES (See Main Topic Pages listed on Website Contents or the Right Sidebar)
  2. VENDOR PAGES (Vendors of Products, Services, Events,+, DestinationsMedia Creators)
  3. PRODUCT PAGES (Equipment, Events, Media: pDoc, Books, Magazines, Videos, Websites,+)

Clickable Links that lead to other webpages appear in Blue Text and usually open in a new window.
Links in the Right Sidebar and most directories open in the current window, not a new window.

Note in the examples above that these pages form a natural hierarchy.
The unnumbered "^" pages are listed alphabetically in most tables.

Media Titles in tables are distinguished by their smaller font size.
Media (Books, Magazines, Videos, Articles,+) are treated as Products.
Vendors' Product Documentation (pDoc) are considered Media.
Destinations & Media Creators are treated as Vendors.
All Website Pages are optimized for viewing on
full-width disktop computer monitors,
but can be viewed on phones.

— Contents of Webpages —
Website Pages typically contain the following Sections:

  1. PATH (Shows the chain of EAB pages w/links that lead to the page being viewed).
    1. EXAMPLE:
      PATH: HOMEWEBSITE INDEX, WEBSITE CONTENTS » ∨
      BOAT BUILDING & REPAIR » Boat Equipment » Propulsion » Engines » ∨∨
      ∧∧ Ford, Ebro, American Diesel, AmMarine, Barr, Beta, Bomac, Bowman, Couach,
      Lees, Lehman, Mermaid, Parsons, RenaultSabre, Thornycroft, Wortham Blake »
      DO-IT-YOURSELF » DIY Boat Building & Repair » DIY Schools & Classes »
      MEDIA w/Creator Directory » Documentation, BooksMagazinesVideosWebsites »
    2. (The "»" right pointing Guillemet symbol shows the chain through the page links.)
    3. (The "," comma between page links in the chain indicates pages are not subordinate, but are instead at the same level. See engine brands in the example above.)
    4. (The "∨", "∨∨", "∨∨∨",+ symbols indicate that the path line continues with whatever follows the "∧", "∧∧", "∧∧∧",+ symbols respectively. "∧" Precedes each MAIN TOPIC Page.)
  2. PAGE CONTENTS (Table of Contents with links to each main section on the page).
  3. PAGE BODY (The type of page determines the contents of its body as follows:).
    1. TOPIC PAGES (Topic Treatment: Introduction, Overview, Background, Details,+).
      • (Many Topic Pages contain Directories of Vendors with Links).
      • (Most Directory Listings are Alphabetical and/or by Locale).
    2. VENDOR PAGES (Vendor's Profile, Contact Information, Products, Services,+).
      • (Manufacturers, Resellers, Refitters, Yards, Surveyors, Clubs, Schools, Authors,+).
      • (Boating & Travel Destinations are treated as Vendors on their own Vendor Pages).
    3. PRODUCT PAGES (Product Features, Vendor Links, Specifications, Documentation,+).
      • (Media created by a vendor is often treated as a Product on its own Product Page).
      • (Boating & Travel Events are often treated as Products on their own Product Pages).
  4. RELATED RESOURCES (Topics, Vendors, Products, Media: Books, Websites,+ with Links).
  5. PAGE TAIL Contains the following Anchors Aweigh Academy & EAB Website Features:
    1. The Anchors Aweigh Academy's EverythingAboutBoats.org Header.
    2. A link to our Featured Articles EAB Home Page.
    3. Top 20 Most Popular Articles. (The section that appears right above this section).
    4. Layout of the EverythingAboutBoats.org Website's Pages. (This very section).
    5. Topics of Webpages. (The very next section below).
    6. What we have accomplished so far.
    7. Members must Sign-In to gain full access to Expanded Pages & Programs.
    8. Sign-Up (if not already a member).
    9. Public Comments (about the website & about this page).
  6. RIGHT SIDEBAR (Website Contents menu with links to Main Topic & Subtopic pages).
    (On some smart phones, the Right Sidebar may appear at the bottom of the webpage)

— Topics of Webpages —
Website Pages are categorized under the following 16 MAIN TOPICS:

The MAIN TOPICS follow a natural progression from conception of the vessel thru its
building, marketing, survey, financing, insuring, transport, moorage, use and upkeep.
The MAIN TOPICS (all Caps) below are followed by their Main Subtopics with Links.

00 – HOME: CONTENTSABOUT EAB: Contact EAB, Abbreviations & Symbols, FAQ, GLOSSARY, ADs,+.
01 – ABOUT BOATS w/Museum Directory: Early History, Recent History, Modern Vessel Types,+.
02 – BOAT BUILDING, OUTFITTING, REFITTING & REPAIR: Materials, Equipment, Builders,+.
03 – BOAT MARKETING: Boat Shows, Dealers & Brokers, Importing & Exporting, Auctions & Sales,+.
04 – BOAT INSPECTION: Types of Marine Surveys, Marine Surveyors, Schools, DIY Inspections,+.
05 – BOAT TITLES & VESSEL REGISTRY: Boat Title & Registration, Vessel Registry, Title Co's,+.
06 – BOAT FINANCING: Conventional (Banks, Credit Unions,+), Unconventional (Creative),+.
07 – BOAT INSURANCE: Maritime & Recreational: Coverage, Carriers, Agents,+., Claim Processing,+.
08 – BOAT TRANSPORT: By Sea (Piggyback, Delivery Skippers & Crews, & Towing), Over-Land,+.
09 – BOAT HAULING & LAUNCHING: Drydocks, Ways, Lifts, Cranes & Hoists, Launch Ramps,+.
10 – BOAT MOORAGE & STORAGE: Builders, Anchorages, Marinas, Yards, Racks & Stacks,+.
11 – BOATING ORGANIZATIONS: Yacht Clubs & Sailing Clubs, Paddling Clubs, Boat Owners,+.
12 – BOATING & TRAVEL: Events, Destinations, Boat Rentals & Charters, Cruises, Voyages,+.
13 – BOATING & MARITIME EDUCATION: Recreational Seamanship, Ship's Master & Crew,+.
14 – MARINE LAWS & REGULATIONS: International & National LawsLawyers‚ Investigators‚+.
15 – DO-IT-YOURSELF: DIY Boat Building & Repair, DIY Boat Sales, DIY Boat Surveys, DIY Classes,+.
16 – MEDIA w/Creator Directory + Academy eLibrary: pDocs, Books, Magazines, Videos, Websites,+.

The above MAIN TOPICS and a more detailed listing of Subtopics can
be found on the Website Contents page and on the Right Sidebar.


What we have accomplished so far.
Anchors Aweigh Academy and its EverythingAboutBoats.org website.

  • Published over 50,000 website pages about boats and boating, bringing us closer to reaching our goal of becoming "The ultimate reference resource about boats and ships for everyone from the beginning recreational boater to the seasoned professional mariner!"
  • Published over 300 website main topic webpages, many with full articles on the topic. See our Website Contents or the Right Sidebar for the listing of the main topic pages.
  • Published over 9,000 marine vendor webpages, all with their contact information, most with a description of their products and services, many with product documentation, specifications and independent reviews. (incl.: Boat designers, boat building tools, material and equipment manufacturers and suppliers, boat builders and dealers, yacht brokers, marine surveyors, boat insurers, boat transporters, skippers and crews, boatyards and marinas, yacht clubs, boat rentals and yacht charters, boating, seamanship and maritime schools, marine law attorneys and expert witnesses, boat refitters and repairers, book authors, magazine publishers, video producers, and website creators)
  • Acquired over 120,000 pages of product documentation including Catalogs, Brochures, SpecSheets, Pictures, Serial Number Guides, Installation Manuals, OpManuals, Parts Catalogs, Parts Bulletins, Shop Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, Service Bulletins, and Recalls. And have made all viewable to Academy Members through our EAB website eLibrary.
  • Acquired over 1,200 books and magazine back issues in our academy library and so far have made over 700 viewable to Academy Members through our EAB website eLibrary.
  • Published over 500 DIY How-To articles about boat design, construction, inspection, operation, maintenance, troubleshooting and repair. We are working hard to do more.

We are currently formatting and polishing the Anchors Aweigh Academy online and hands-on courses. Our Marine Surveying course has proven to be excellent for both the beginner and the seasoned surveyor, and especially helpful to the Do-It-Yourselfer.


Current Academy Members must SIGN IN to gain FULL access to this
website including expanded pages and valuable Academy programs
like our Academy eLibrary and our Ask-An-Expert Program!

If your membership has expired, CLICK HERE to Renew.

IF YOU ARE NOT YET AN ANCHORS AWEIGH ACADEMY MEMBER,
CLICK HERE to discover how you can become a Member and gain FULL access to
thousands of expanded pages and articles, and dozens of excellent programs
WITH JUST A SMALL DONATION!


Comments for Public Viewing

Submit any comments for public viewing via email To: Comments♣EverthingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@")
Please remember to put this webpage's title in the subject line of your email.
All comments are moderated before they appear on this page. See Comment Rules.

General Comments About the Website

FROM Donald: "This is an awesome website. I found the information that I needed right away from one of the over 20,000 free articles that you provide as a public service. I'm surprised that so much if this site is free. But I still signed up so I could access the thousands of expanded pages, interesting articles, and dozens of valuable programs! The member's library of books, magazines and videos that I can view online is really terrific! I understand that you and your staff are all unpaid volunteers. Please keep up the good work. And I commend you for your plans to add another 10,000 free informative articles over the next year. I'm thrilled to support you in this endeavor with my small membership donation. Thanks again for all your hard work."

FROM Huey: "I agree with my Uncle, I too have found the articles to be very enlightening. They say that it will take about 100,000 articles to cover the full scope that they have envisioned for the website. They have over 20,000 articles so far and that's doing pretty well, but it could take several years to get the rest. I also noticed that many of the Main Topic Pages and some of the article pages are still in the rough draft stage. I guess that they will fill in as they can get volunteers to work on them. But what I can't figure out is why anyone would spend the time writing informative in depth articles just to give away free to this website for publication? What's in it for them?"

FROM Dewey: "Well Huey, to me It looks like most of the articles on this website are written by very informed people, like boating instructors, boat designers, boat builders, riggers, electricians, fitters, marine repair technicians and marine surveyors. Writing such articles helps establish them as knowledgeable professionals. After all, this website was originally created by a school for marine technicians and marine surveyors. The website is growing in content every day. They even had to move to a bigger, more powerful server because the website's traffic has been growing exponentially."

FROM Louie: "I agree with everyone above. This site is quickly becoming the ultimate reference resource about every aspect of boats and ships for everyone from the beginning recreational boater to the seasoned professional mariner. I use the topic pages on the right sidebar to browse around the website. It's like a Junior Woodchucks' Guidebook for Boaters. Their Members' Library of over 300 popular and obscure books and over 200 magazine back issues that can be viewed online is fabulous. The Academy's magazine is especially informative. On top of that, there is the "Ask-An-Expert program for members where you can get an expert's answer to any of your boat questions. And a whole years membership is only $25. What a deal! I really love being part of this "Everything About Boats" community and help provide thousands of helpful articles free to the public. I think that I'll sit down right now and write an article about my experiences boating with my uncle."

FROM Scrooge: "You rave about this website like it was the best thing since sliced bread. Well, I think it stinks. Sure, it has a lot of good information for boaters, and they're adding more every day, but it will probably never be finished. Furthermore, I don't even own a boat. And I wouldn't have a boat even if someone gave me one. Boats are a waste of money and time and energy and money! They're just a hole in the water you pour money into. If you gave me a boat, I'd sell it quicker then you could say Baggywrinkle. Then I'd lock up the cash with all my other money so I could keep my eye on it and count it every day. Bah humbug."

FROM Daisy: "I'm just so glad that Donald got the boat so we and the boys could enjoy boating — together. And of course all of the girls, April, May, and June, love to be on the water too, especially when that is where the boys are. Oh poor Scrooge, boating is more fun then you could possibly imagine."

FROM Scrooge: "After seeing how much fun you all have on the water together, I regret that I didn't have that much fun when I was young. I've had a change of heart, and I'm giving each of you a Lifetime Academy Membership."

FROM Editor: "For those of you that have stayed with us this far, many thanks, and we hope that you found this little narrative informative. Your faithful support inspires us to keep working on this phenomenal website. We know that we have a lot more to do. Ultimately, we hope that we can help you enjoy the wonder filled world of boating as much as we do. We are all waiting to see what you have to say about this webpage article. Submit any comments via email To: Comments♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@"). Be sure to include this page's title in the subject line. Also, your corrections, updates, additions and suggestions are welcomed. Please submit them via email To: Editor♣EverythingAboutBoats.org (Replace "♣" with "@"). It has been truly amazing to see what we have been able to accomplished when we've worked together. Thanks to all those that have donated their valuable time and energy, and a special THANK YOU to all that have supported this cause with their membership donations."

Comments About This Particular Page

FROM ΞNameΞ:Be_the_next_to_comment_about_this_page.” {230316}